It was a perfect day. Sun was out, waves were big, kinda what you expect on the shores of Hawaii. The beach was empty which was unusual but I didnt give it much thought. I was here for the waves. I was busy waxing my board watching the sets coming in looking for just the right time to paddle out when I saw it. A giant shadow moving towards shore. There it was, what Ive been waiting for all morning. I snatched up my board and sprinted towards the water. I flung myself into the water and began paddling as fast as I could. The wave was starting to take shape it was going to be massive. As I paddled over the smaller waves I pictured what its going to be like with my picture on the internet as the youngest ever to ride such a massie wave. I cant help but smile at the thought of it. Maybe the famous surfer and my personal hero Kelly Slater would want my autograph. I have it all figured out, Miles Austin the famous big wave surfer. First 10 year old to ride a 50 foot wave. Married to Selena Gomez I know I know shes a little old for me since Im only 10 but I really like her.
My timing is perfect, this wave is bigger than I thought. Im pumped right now as I spin on my board to drop into this monster. My heart catches in my throat as the nose pushes forward into the wave,
Miles
What was that Im surfing here, ok Im dropping into this monster of a wave I promise its at least 50 feet high
Miiiiles
What the what?
I can feel the board picking up speed its sickly insane. The tube is huge you could stand two of me in here.
Miles Austin!
