Lords of Dogtown

Surfing the Pier

Jay's POV

I woke up to Donnie screaming his head off and having to remind him not once again he wasnt in Vietnam. I traded the usual good morning's with my Mom, before heading out to the pier. Ate whatever there was to eat and grabbed my old board and rode off the roof of the shed to the concrete. I lived to wake up before the sun and be able to hit the waves when theyre at there best.

I skated my way out and trying it many times I wanted to hit the green light and pass by the four way from starting on top of the hill without having to stop.

  I was so close, but before you know it I fell pretty hard because of some damn rock the size of a pea.   It was alright though, I got up like nothing happened and headed down to the pier.

Meeting up with Tony I heard the same shit about his Dad wanting him to go to school, about him leaving early to get wet, and so on. His Dad just doesn't want him to become a "ditchdigger" as he would say himself.

   Stacey later showed up and we headed down to the water. The waves were big this morning. I heard one of the boys behind me asking "Theyre there huh?" and as I look up I see Skip charging. Before we can watch a little more the guys hollared that it was "judgement day." What fucks!  "You broads arnt surfing now!" one of the guys say, "I aint surfing no sloppy seconds" Tony said, "Youre on rat patrol, mop top." he snapped back. 

   Well anything for the water, We had to earn to surf the cove.  According to these assholes.  Peralta (Stacey) was in the bone yard and I was on parking-lot detail, and Tony on the old rat patrol.

 

As I watched, smoking a cigerette I realized how much I loved surfing. The early cold mornings by the water didn't bother me. It was something to do and something i actually liked doing! Before we knew it we were in the water in no time... After one of the guys hurt themselves that is.  Me and Tony rode the waves, leaving Stace all milk and cookies falling in the water, and being told to go back to the bone yard. 

Skip and the guys left back to the shop. Leaving us to stay out here and do our thing. 

We decided to get out and we dried off laying on the old deck that was here for as long as I can remember. I lit up a cigerette and layed there. Inhaling the cool air and the smoke from my cigerette, then we decided to go check out Sid at Skip's shop. We skated along with the cars and had many of them honking and beeping their horns after they were left behind us. We ran red lights, and sometimes it wasnt intended. We never actually wanted to get hit by a moving vihicle. We're just lucky enough that it didn't happen.... yet.