Kelly's P.O.V
The waves today are absolutely perfect, my favourite kind of wave to surf. Jason texted us last night telling me I was competing at 10:30 but to arrive at 9:00 at the latest so we can watch the waves. Me being a paranoid teenager got there at 8:00, ready to roll, I wanted to see who I was competing against and get in the zone. Mum drove to snapper and we met up with the billabong crew that was supplying my board, the exact size I love to ride back home 5'5 foot.
I looked around snapper beach to see if Jason was here. Sure enough there he was, sitting on the beach, more nervous than I. I walked over to him, getting even more nervous as the reality hit me, this contest will determine my future this surf will determine how I go on with my life.
"Hey Jason!" I say acting happy, but on the inside I was a nervous reck.
"Hey pumpkin, nervous?, ready to win?" I smiled at his nickname, he had been calling me that ever since I was born when he used to be Molly's coach.
"Yep and yep" I laughed nervously
"Don't be you will do great, just remember everything iv taught you, and don't let the other girls hassle you!" he said seriously, Jason ,used to be on the Australian tour so he new all about these comps, he is an amazing coach!
"Yeah i remember" I laughed remembering all our training sessions we have had together. We then started talking about the rip, line up and best place to wait for the sets. I started to become more confident as I studied the waves, read them like a book.
Soon enough it was only half an hour until my heat started, I started to get dressed in all my billabong bikini, wetsuit, sunscreen and went to collect my rashie that let's the judges know which colour you are. I put about 5 layers of fresh wax on my new board and stuck some billabong and vonzipper stickers on it. Twenty minutes past and all us girls walked over to the shaw line, to stretch and get ready to paddle out.
I saw the girls in my heat, one was a bigger, short girl with brown hair and big muscly legs, she has to be good. Then the other girl was a small, skinny, aboriginal girl with beautiful brown hair, she seemed to look pretty good as well. Then there was the other girl who was a stocky small build, blonde hair, she was very pretty. They all where, and they all seemed very good, but as my coach has always says "don't be intimidated by looks!" he must have told me that a million times! We all stretched and talked a bit before a mans voice came over the loud speaker.
"5 minutes remaining, girls from the next heat can paddle out" We all ran for the water, letting the cool water clear my mind. It's just another surf, like back home.
"3,2,1"
HOOOOT! The buzzer went off signalling for us to start our heat, oh god!
We sat the waiting for a set to come through, a smaller wave came through and I paddled for it, just to score some points on the board. I hopped up onto my feet, letting all my worries disappear and letting my inner surfer come out. The wave ended up being a beautiful right hander, I did a few carves, then the wave started to barrel, so I pulled in quickly the wave came over my body and a small tube formed around me, for about three 5 seconds then I made it out did one more sharp snap and exited the wave. What I thought was going to be a shit quick wave ended up being a pretty amazing ride! I paddled back out and waited for another wave, one of the girls complemented me on my wave, this is what I love about surfing everyone is so cruise it's great. Finally a really good set came rolling through, one of the other girls caught the first one but I had my eye on the second. Paddling into position, make my move and hop to my feet, this wave was bigger and smoother great for combinations, I did a quick bottom turn into top turn, roundhouse cutback, then a quick snap and exited the wave. They where the best waves in that heat for me, my other waves where all right but they where my best. I caught one more wave, that closed out right before the buzzer signalled our heat was over. We all got out of the water and I ran over to Jason, I hope I did all alright, god what if the other girls where amazing and I looked stupid?!
"You did amazing! that first wave was great, you even got barrelled, awesome shredding pumpkin!" he complemented enveloping me in a hug.
"What where the other girls like?" I asked eagerly
"You definitely won that heat! They where good but you beat them hands down!" he said extremely sure of himself.
"I don't know, let's go check and see if I got through to the semi's" I said walking towards the tent of judges, that the other three girls where huddled at. I took off my rashie and placed it in the bucket.
"Okay so you guys no the drill, first and second go through to the semi's" he said and we all mumbled a 'yeah' or 'we know'
"Okay so 4th was Jenna Lina, sorry but you won't be progressing to the next round. 3rd is Dexter Hemsworth, again sorry you didn't make it through," OMG!!! I made it through to the next round!! hold your excitement down, you don't want to upset the others! "second was Erin Jacobs, congratulations and 1st was Kelly Waters, congratulations" he said happily. I won, I can't wait to tell Jason, and mum and Molly! I ran over to Jason giving him the biggest bone crushing hug.
"I'm guessing you made it through?" he laughed trying to get out of my death grip.
"I won!!!" I said letting him go.
"Told ya! you did great I am so proud of you pumpkin do you want to call your mum?" he asked, my mum understood that I didn't really like her at the comps, you see I like to be able to be with my coach and myself so I can focus but if I make it through to the finals she comes and watches.
"Yes please!" I said grabbing my phone from my bag and dialling the ever so familiar phone number.
"How'd you go?" was the first question I got from my mum when she answered the call.
"I won!" was all I could say
"OMG!! are you serious, Molly she won!" she shouted out to my sister. I heard ruffling and the my sisters voice,
"Hey sis, congrats! How was your wave selection? Did you do some good manoeuvres to impress the judges?" she asked
"Thanks Moll, my selection was pretty good but could be better and I got in and out of a barrel, did a few good manoeuvres, that I guess impressed them." I answered truthfully
"Well that's great sis! I'll be there tomorrow for the finals with mum, I'll get the day off work." she said
"You don't have to if you don't want to." I stated, but we all new I wanted nothing more than my big sister to be there.
"I'm coming" she laughed and handed the phone back over to mum.
"Okay honey, text me what happens with the semi's good luck sweetie, you'll smash it." she said and hung up the phone. I walked back over to Jason and listened to new strategies for the semi's, ways that I could improve, etc. Time flew my and before I knew it I was stretching with a new group of girls, more nervous than ever now, but "don't let looks intimidate you" Jason's advice rung in my head.
"5 minutes remaining, girls in in the next heat may paddle out." Here we go again! I dove into the refreshing water once again, ready to win my dream life. I paddled until I had reached my sitting point that Jason had pointed out earlier, I watched the previous heat, quickly trying to catch that last wave before the hooter rang, until finally it did. I took a deep breath and thought of everything Jason has taught me, now time to make all my dreams come true!
As the perfect sets rolled through I picked the best on, paddled into position and got to my feet. A quick bottom turn into a huge hack, smacking the lip, huge spray, then doing a quick snap and another hack. I paddled back out and waited for another wave, the consistent sets rolled through which meant I got more and more waves, until the final buzzer blew, signalling whether or not I got into the finals. I caught a wave on my stomach back into the shore, quickly walking up to Jason for feed back, I felt I did good.
"Great job! it's gonna be close between you and blonde, but you did great a few solid waves, I'm so proud of you pumpkin!" he said extremely happy walking over towards the judges like last time I took off my rashie and walked over towards the other girls.
"Okay so only first place goes through into the finals, now 4th place was Renee Quinn, sorry but you did not get through, 3rd place was Jasmine Lee again sorry but you didn't make it, second place was" he passed looking at his sheet for confirmation, god I hope I won! "Hannah Dephina, sorry honey but it was very close only 0.4 away, 1st place was Kelly Waters, congratulations!" ARE YOU KIDDING ME! I actually won, I'm in the finals? This has to be a dream, somebody pinch me!
YOU ARE READING
A Surfer on a mission
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