Safe in my Hands

"Screw it," I sigh, flipping my board back around where the island seemed to be calling my name. It was already getting late, and I didn't seem to have much of a choice than to paddle back seeing as the waves seemed to be dead today.

Lowering myself down once again, I feel my stomach hit the smooth surface of the surfboard before I raise my left arm, and bring it over the water. Just as I was about to continue my procedure, I feel a slight shift in the current, as if it were pulling me back ever so slightly. Instantly, my face lit up, a determined grin curling onto my face as I crane my neck to face a hill of water, gaining altitude by the second.

Just then, I begin to feel myself being tugged back by the current, my body and the board facing some-what downward. And just as i'm about to prop myself up and balance myself on the board, I feel my stance shift, and an avalanche of water come crushing down on me.