MADE TO MEASURE - The London Bespoke Club
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Ongoing, First published Jan 10
Suit shopping especially for first-timers who want to invest in higher-end wardrobe essentials can be overwhelming. Whether you're a veteran gentleman or an amateur looking to finally replace your sweats with more complex pieces to elevate your style, it's important to know the difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready to wear because depending on the fit, fabric quality and/or occasion your suit shopping for, this basic terminology is worth knowing. 
Bespoke and made to measure (MTM) are similar in the sense that they are meant to fit the client more precisely,  however, the level of precision in the final fit and overall quality wildly differs due to the amount of labor used in each make. Typically low to mid-range fabrics will be used in MTM in order to make it a more cost-effective option for consumers. When boiled down, the biggest difference lies in the pattern making process and often the finishing.
Made-to-Measure 
Made-to-measure is a 'custom suit' that is cut, usually by machine, from an existing block pattern, and adjusted according to the client's measurements. Block patterns are usually a set of paper patterns that have been designed for a variety of chest sizes and starting points for each garment. Once a client is measured a block pattern is selected that most closely corresponds with the customer's measurements. It is then altered to match the customer's measurements. The garment is constructed from this altered pattern. This results in a more exact fit especially for body types that don't fit the 'off-the-rack' measurements, which is most men as true body symmetry is rare.
Made-to-measure allows for customization which you can't get from ready-to-wear as well as an improved fit, however, made-to-measure always involves some form of standardization in the pattern-making and manufacturing.
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