Fear is just another reason to try harder

This story is about a young Hawaiian girl who loves to surf. She dreams of becoming a pro surfer. Every morning she would surf for hours. Until her worst nightmare becomes reality. She's involved in a car crash and the doctors tell her she will never be able to surf again, due to being paralysed and having her right leg amputated. She stops going altogether because she feels that there's nothing left for her. She then gets made a prosthetic leg. After the tsunami in Japan she goes with her support group to take donations to Japan. After realising no one would go in the water because they were all scared, she faces her fears so that others will too. She becomes a great surfer.
This is the story of Riley Evans