I wait for the wave to come, i sit there stradeld on my board I can hear Rafe shouting at me in the back but i cant make out what hes saying to me, the wave approaches pretty fast but i crouch and hold my board. I hold the board and im focousing on riding the wave not some cool tricks, one i start riding the wave i do a little trick. im at the very top of the wave. it was such a beautiful view, it was amazing. I start to come down on the wave and i accept im going down. i fall of the board as it touches the bottom right after i ride the wave. My head is under the water but im fine, im just waiting for the water to go over my head to know the wave has passes. But i feel someone pulling me up from under the water.
