LAST 24 HOURS in SEOUL

Part 04 | Airin - 09AM

"Is it always this cold? I feel like a fish in the fridge!"

I mutter through chattering teeth.
It's so cold I can barely feel my fingers. As an Indonesian—more specifically, as someone who has spent most of her life sweating in the hot, sticky streets of Jakarta—this freezing winter air is like a death sentence. Sure, I knew it was going to be cold. I mean, it's winter, right? But this—this is something else. This is freeze-your-bones cold.

I really need to thank Vina. I almost came to Seoul with nothing more than my normal commuter a.k.a daily bike jacket before she called me crazy and rushed over to my place to load me up with all this puffy stuff—kinda cute puffy stuff. If it wasn't for her, I'd be a frozen fish right now.

And then there are the long johns. That word. That term. Until yesterday, when Vina burst through my door with all this puffy stuff, I had no idea long johns were thermal underwear. Honestly, I thought long johns were donuts—something you find in a bakery, not a winter store! Why are they even called long johns? Weird name. But hey, I'm lucky Vina and I are the same size. They fit perfectly, and I have to admit, they're a lifesaver.

We've decided our first stop is going to be Gyeongbokgung Palace. Why? Simple—at least 5 out of 10 dramas I love have scenes filmed there, and I need to see it with my own eyes.

Now, we're trudging through Seoul's winter wonderland, heading toward Myeongdong Station. Rei offered to take a taxi, saying it would save us time, but nope—I'm not here to be efficient. Even if I only have 24 hours in Seoul, I want to experience it like a local, so we're taking the train. Maybe we'll hop on a bus later.

As we walk further away from our hotel coffee shop, Myeongdong starts to feel less like a tourist trap and more like an everyday street—well, an everyday street that's still trying really hard to impress you. The neon signs are still hanging around, but they're more like background dancers now, not the main act. The stores are a mix of everything: convenience shops, small restaurants, and those street stalls selling stuff like socks with cartoon characters. I mean, seriously, how many socks does one person need?

The street is quieter here but still busy in that "everyone's got somewhere to be" way. People walk by with their heads buried in their scarves, eyes fixed on the pavement, probably just trying to survive the cold. I catch sight of a few high schoolers in their uniforms, but they're so bundled up they look like walking pillows with legs sticking out.

There are a few ajummas bustling around, pulling carts with who-knows-what inside. I kind of want to peek, but I also don't want to be that weirdo tourist looking into a stranger's stuff. But yes, it's a totally different vibe from my daily life, and I'm going to enjoy every single second of it.

And Rei, of course, walks perfectly normally, like this cracked sidewalk is part of his daily routine. Meanwhile, I'm just trying not to slip on what I think is ice but could also be some weird street sludge. Glamorous, I know.

"Yes, it's cold," Rei answers as we walk. "But today's actually a bit warmer than the last couple of days."

I stop in my tracks, staring at him. "What do you mean warmer, Rei? Do you guys live in an ice age?"

He chuckles. "Yeah, winters here are pretty harsh, especially for someone from Indonesia. But it's December now, so yeah, it's cold."

Curiosity strikes me. "You've been here for a few years, right? I wonder how you handled your first winter."

"Hmm, actually yes. I first came around this time, mid-December, and... yes, it's tough," he replies, and I can see his expression shift slightly.

"It's very difficult, yes," he repeats his last sentence. Something bad definitely happened back then. Should I ask him, or should I ignore it?