Keeping a Backyard Horse

Tack

I use the term tack to refer to horse equipment as a collective unit, but more specifically it means riding items such as saddles, bridles, and other things. If you plan to ride your horse, you will need at least a few of these important items.

A saddle can come in a variety of materials ranging from plain to fantastically ornate. There are three basic types of saddles: English, Western, and Australian. English saddles are small, light in weight, and hug closely to the horse's body. Their stirrups are small and usually hang from thin leather straps. A Western saddle is larger and heavier, with thick, curvy leather to hold large stirrups, and it features a saddle horn. An Australian saddle is a sort of combination of the two, lighter than a Western saddle and closely hugging the horse, with an addition of poleys situated near to the rider's thighs, a device that helps the rider maintain a good seat. They come either with or without horns, and this is the saddle my mom prefers to use.

If you're already a rider, then you know which type suits your style. As a beginning rider, a Western or Australian stock saddle would be a good choice. Saddles come in two basic structures based on the tree, the frame the saddle is built on. A Thoroughbred tree is very narrow at the withers, designed for those types of horses who have a tall, angular withers. A Quarter Horse tree is wider at the withers, and a good choice for most horses. If in doubt as to the type of saddle that would fit your horse, choose a Quarter Horse tree. Better safe than sorry!

A poorly fitted saddle can cause you trouble with your horse. For example, if you have a narrow saddle on a horse with wide shoulders, it may pinch her and cause her not to want to be saddled, or to jump around or buck when you're trying to ride her. Even a piece of hay or dried grass can get lodged between the saddle and your horse's skin, and cause a pinch or a prick.

Saddles can be made of leather, fake leather (known as pleather), or a heavy-duty nylon material. Real leather saddles are more expensive, and usually heavier to carry. They will require regular cleaning to maintain them in good condition. Saddles can be plain, have mild tooling and decorations, or be covered in rhinestones and silver accents.

You will also need a saddle blanket, a cloth pad that goes between your saddle and your horse's back. It will help cushion the saddle, preventing sores to your horse's skin, and also help absorb sweat. Many of them are washable. There are several varieties, including a pad that needs no folding, or a blanket that should be folded over at least once. The type of saddle blanket you need depends on your saddle and how your horse tolerates a saddle. If you notice hair being rubbed away or sores developing on your horse's back after a ride, you might need an extra fold or a thicker pad.

There are as many styles of bridles as there are types of horses and riders. A light trail rider will do just fine with a standard snaffle bit (one hinged in the middle) or a low curb bit (solid through the middle, with a slight rise to it) and a regular headstall. One of the questions you should ask when buying your horse is what type of bit he's been trained and ridden with. Unless you're planning on re-training your horse or sending him to a trainer, stick to what he's accustomed to. You'll have a more pleasant riding experience and your horse won't be fighting your control.

Your horse should also have a halter or two, for tying her safely when grooming, saddling, medicating, or trailering. NEVER tie your horse by the leg! This can be very dangerous and can damage her leg and joints. Nylon halters cost around $10, so it's a good idea to have at least two halters for every horse that you have. If you have more than one horse, they should each have their own equipment. Sharing tack is a good way to share germs as well. Unless you're skilled at properly tying a rope halter, stick with the flat nylon ones that buckle.

A lead rope or two will also be necessary. These come in different lengths, styles, and colors, with different sorts of clips. Find one that you're comfortable using. You'll need this for leading your horse in from the pen, or any time you need to lead or secure your horse.

Your climate and your horse's living conditions may dictate some other gear that you might like to have on hand. In summer, many horses benefit from a fly mask, a mesh mask that covers the face, with holes for the ears and a Velcro closure at the throat. This will cover the face, but still allow your horse to see, and it will keep flies off the face and around the eyes. In colder climates, or for horses that don't grow a very thick winter coat, you might want to have a thick turnout blanket. These secure across the chest, under the belly, and often have back leg straps. Mom has both a fly mask and a blanket for me. Even though I might cause a fuss when she first puts them on every year, I always appreciate them later on! Other types of sheets are available, including a mesh fly sheet similar to the fly mask, and light turnout sheets designed for cool weather or to keep your horse's coat nice and dry.

All of your horse tack should be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis. This gives you the chance to replace any worn parts and helps keep your equipment in good condition for many years. A winter blanket can be hand-scrubbed with mild laundry soap and brushed, and sprayed down with the garden hose, then dried in the sun before being packed away for the summer. Fly masks can also be scrubbed and hosed down.

Some of these items can be very expensive, and with regular maintenance, your gear can last for many years. Don't store tack out in the weather, sun and rain will cause damage in a very short amount of time. And if you can't store your tack in the house or barn, and keep it in a garage or outbuilding of some type, make sure you keep on the lookout for mice. For some reason, they love to chew up leather! And if you live in a moist climate, even storing your saddle in the barn can cause mold, so make sure you inspect and clean your tack regularly even if you're not using it.