King Of Style - Dressing Michael Jackson

Introduction

Above: The Michael mannequin on which for close to twenty-five years Dennis and I fitted the hundreds of pieces we conceptualized, desgined, created and made before dressing Michael Jackson.

The Sum of a Man Is More Than His Measurements

Michael Jackson's image was as much a work of art as the man himself. Through his music, dance and fashion, he created a mystique that was uniqueto him and recognized as such throughout the world. Michael's appeal was in his desire to send subtle messages through the manipulation of his voice, body and clothes. Costume and performance came together to become Michael Jackson. He was a visionary of style and unsed that vision (along with all of his other considerable talents) to transform himself from kid star to King of Pop. Dennis Tompkins and I were members of his cadre: a team of creatives that he personally assembled to help bring his idea of himself into physical reality. As his exclusive designers for close to twenty-five years, we were the cocreators of Michael's fashion style. Through a unique creative process, we learned how to channel his thoughts, wishes, and philosophies to create clothing that symbolized what he stood for.
The King Of Style is the first-ever pictorial compilation of the evolution of that process - a visual adventure of our work together.
We likened Michael Jackson to a canvas. He relished the details, was always curious about the process, and craved inventions - compelled always to pull off something new. He wanted his clothes, like his music and dance moves, to be a mind-boggling-selfexpression. We were tasked with assisting him in that expression.
It was Michael's wish for us that we compile this book.
In fact, it was his idea. "Wouldn't you love to know how The Wizard of Oz was made?", Michael's eyes would light up with wonder and grow large as he posed this question. To him, it was a no-brainer to pull back the curtain and reveal our contribution to the makings of a pop icon.
Behind that curtain, however, was a no facade, but a very real man with a deep love and appreciation for art, someone who very much embodied the dreams he inspired in others. His sense of style reflected his perfectionist mind, and by understanding the fashions - along with the personal stories behind them - an entirely new side of Michael Jackson is revealed.

IN MEDIAS RES - IN THE MIDDLE OF THINGS

Most of the great epic sagas were written by beginning in the middle of the story, employing the literary device known as in medias res. Michael Jackson's life was nothing short of epic, and in keeping with that idea, The King Of Style begins during the making of "Bad", when Michael was at the top of his game but only beginning his solo career. "Bad" was the first tour he performed without his brothers, and it marked the point when he invited Dennis and me to join his quest to become the ultimate solo artist.
As Michael's image evolved, so did our own as designers and artists. Michael loved a challenge, and he pushed us to rise to the occasion. Leading us out of our comfort zone with bizarre requests, intriguing riddles, and an unrelenting confidence in our abilities, Michael always encouraged us to think beyond the box and run heand-on into the most daunting challenges.
Sometimes this meant risking that Michael wouldn't like what we tried. For example, there was the Berlin Coat: a black leather, zipperless coat adorned with car club badges. We were inspired to make it while chasing ideas at a European car show.

On the set of "Black or White" short film 

When we presented it to Michael, he asked, "Why did you make that?". He refused to try it on. Our stomaches all but jumped into our throats. But trusting that Dennis and I had an instinct about it, Michael tried it on, and it eventually became one of his favorite pieces. These types of interactions became the foundation for our life with Michael, which developed from a perfunctory relationship into a friendship based on mutual trust and confidence.
To us, Michael was a teacher who changed our professional lives in ways we were never expected. The depth and complexities of our creations often surprised us - and that was because Michael was our muse. His philosophy was to always try something new, to make people do a double take. His philosophy became our own. He thaught us to expect change and to look for laughter and humor in every day. Together, we would go on to create what he liked to call "wearable art".
Although many of his clothes and costumes could be considered whimsical, Michael didn't choose his wardrobe on a whim.
Dressing him was a multilayered process of conveying a message, evoking an emotion, and stimulating a thought in anyone who laid eyes on him. His clothing was both reflection of and companion to his lyrics, music, short films, special effects, and tours; it contributed to a greater whole.
Nothing exemplifies this fact better that the story of the Lean Shoes, which was the biggest challenge ever given to us by Michael. Choreographed into his "Smooth Criminal" short film was a dance move referred to as "the lean move", in which Michael leaned forward at a 45-degree angle. Michael wanted to perform this move live onstage and challenged us to create something that would enable him to do it. We invented a device that was installed inside the shoe that hooked into a bolt on the floor and allowed Michael  to create the "lean" move live. He obtained a patent in all of our names. Through that venture, Michael helped us grow from artists into true inventors.
Michael didn't like comforming to popular style. He called apparel designers of a mass-produced clothing "manufacturers" and said, " Clothes should fit to me, not me to the clothes". His rule was function first. If the piece didn't work for the purfose, he wouldn't wear it. He demanded total comfort and fit, for which the choice of fabric was crucial. His corduroy shirt was a favorite for this reason. But Michael's love for unrestricting garments didn't mean he wasn't a fan of a snug. Ultimately, he wore the garment: the garment didn't wear him.
Michael had a dancer's body, and all of the cuts and fabrics of his performance clothes were form-fitting. He wanted the audience to watch him, not the clothes. The type of clothes he favoured also served as protection from being grabbed by a fan. For this reason, we avoided neckties, fringes, and bell bottoms, all of which made him susceptible to reaching hands.
Dancing played a critical role in his wardrobe and vice versa. Dressing him on tour and costuming his entire cast gave us great insight into the intricate balance of song, dance and wardrobe.
For instance, until the day he died, Michael wore only Florsheim shoes! Not to say anything is wrong with black leather loafers bought in a mall store, but it would be a safe guess that a man with such fame and fortune would opt for the more expensive shoe. But not Michael. He taught himself to dance in Florsheims as a boy. They were comfortable and were what he had worn as a child star. Designers would send him expensive designer shoes, like Gucci loafers, but Michael wouldn't wear them for fear that he couldn't dance in them.
Other little-known facts we learned along the way included why Michael never polished his shoes or wore anything made of wool and fur; Michael's affinity for rhinestones, beads, and beautiful natural fabrics; his necessity for a focal point in every ensemble; his favorite jacket of all time, as well as the item he always wanted to wear, but never had the opportunity to; his love of British monarchs, Egytian gold, Michaelangelo, and Bazooka bubble gum; and our personal favorite: Michael's trickster personality and the pranks he loved to play on Dennis and me.
Michael was a man of many paradoxes, most of which we were able to represent in the clothes we designed; rigid military cuts that were also elastic and moveable; rebellious regalia for for army commanders worn over the heart of a gentle man; bedazzled embellishments adorning a man blessed with a quiet humility; one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted clothes worn with aged, scuffed Florsheim shoes. Michael Jackson was the epitome of an enigmatic superstar, and The King Of Style charts his journey through the fashion he wore.