Chapter 1

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I wake up to the salty smell in the air as I get out of bed at 5:00 I know this is when the surf is the best. I quickly pull on my bathing suit from rip curl and grab a apple and head out the door. As I climb into my silver truck I forgot my board a Channel island board. As I drive I take a bite of my green crisp apple watching the palm trees go by. Then I pull in ah he air mmmmmm love the smell of the ocean. As I walk to the ocean with my board in hand I quickly run down to the beach to start surfing. I sit down with my sticky bumps wax and rub it on there and then I set off for the ocean.

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