Surfing adventures

April 2020:

Sunday 5th:

Today we went to Eloura beach illegally because it's still corona virus time but the beach was still open. This beach is really good for me because it's like Palm beach. only bad thing about today was that there were a lot of backwash in the water. I did catch some waves but I fell off lots too even though the waves were super small. Tom caught some really good waves. 

Later in the car I started crying because my feet were cold and tingling. Tom said ''it isn't that cold''. 

Wednesday 22nd:

Today Tom and I went to Tamarama beach when Tom was on his lunch break from working from home. He said he chose the location too quickly which wasn't good conditions for me. The waves were dumping too much which is hard for me but on the bright side, today Tom taught me that I need to put my weight at the back of the board when catching waves like this. I need more practice with this because I keep getting smashed by waves. 

Also, this was the first time we illegally broke in through the fence to go in the beach because it's still Covid-19 time. We came back home and I made blueberry cobbler for the first time and it was delicious!

Thursday 23rd:

Today we went to Bondi beach which was also closed by the gates and again we went through the cracks that provided a little opening. There were no swimmers here, not like how it would normally be a lot of people. However, there were a couple of surfers swimming in south Bondi which is also where we went to and even though the waves were little I still got hit by them and tumbling under the water. It felt like I'm drowning again, just like how I was drowning at the same beach a few years ago and had to be saved by the lifesavers who recorded my embarrassment and put me on their show 'Bondi Rescue'. 

I walked out of the water and sat on the sand, upset. Tom suggested we go to the north side of the beach, which turned out a lot better.

Friday 24th:

Today we went through the cracks of the fence to get into Tamarama beach. I caught some waves...