chapter -1 dreams

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surfing is a passion , if you have the opportunity to discover the talent. when you ride in a perfect wave everything seems unstoppable to you, and you feel you can do anything or so i thought...
I had dreams to become a pro surfer and make my living via the ocean and the waves, until they day i encounter a great white shark. people think they know the truth about the great white but we are all wrong. this Properly makes no sense so let me start right from the beginning.

I've been a surfing since i was four when i caught my first wave, from that moment on i knew surfing was what I wanted to do. That wave for me predicted my feature. i live in Australia right by the beach its not Bondi . luckily . we live by a beach with just surfers, most of the time. I consider myself lucky as i live right next to three of my best friends Seren, Georgia and Ellie. All of us are surfers, since our moms are best friends we've all grown up together. Everyday we would go surfing, seeing as were homeschooled we spend more time in the ocean than we do writing lines of algebra. I tend to use my waves as my maths wave 1 ,wave 2, wave 3. you get the point. when we do surf we never think of the danger like sharks or rip curls. Even though we pay attention , we never think we are going to encounter the dangers or so thought...

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