Diary Of A Surfer Girl

the stage - day 1

Dear Diary, 04/19/2021

Today it's Monday the 19th of April and it's my first day of my surf stage. My brother and I arrived at the surf club and then we saw different people that we knew and everything. Then it was time to go in our respective group. So we wait and me and my brother were in the same group, the group called "the intermediaries". In surf there are well 3 different phases. The first one : Begginer, the ones who never surfed before or just beginning; The second one : Intermediaries, the ones who surfs for several years or several months and that have well the basics; and then the Expert. So i was a little confused to be in the intermediaries group because yeah i had surfed before but not a lot and i was very very bad at surfing so i was confused but anyways. I took my board, it was a 7'8 that my surf teacher gave me. My surf teacher was Marco, a 40yo man, very small like super super small but very kind. We were i think 7 in the group and one girl was from my Middle School. So we went at the spot, on the beach then we started practicing. We started with a little run to prepare the muscles. This run actually killed me, i was so out of breath after that and for some reason, my throat was hurting really bad and i couldn't breath normally but anyways. Then after the little run, we went bodysurfing which is, surfing with your body. It's to see how powerful the waves are, to prepare your body to do some sport in the water (which was cold) and it's also to know where the current of the sea carries you away. After that we went back on the sand, we did some take off (take off is the name of the movement used to get up on the board) just to see if we were doing it alright, then after i attached my leash to my left ankle because i'm goofy (goofy is the fact to be standing on the board with the left foot behind and the right foot in front. some people are "regular" it's right foot behind and left foot in front) then i took my board and went in the water. I hadn't surfed for 3 years so i was kinda emotional but also excited to be back in the sea, on my board, just dancing with the waves. My surf teacher, Marco was really nice and i remember he was pushing us with the waves so we could get up and surf the waves. A thing that i noticed that day it's that the others kiddos like my brother and i were way more skilled than us so that's why again, i was wondering why we were in that group. By the way, i'm ines and im 15, my little brother is named paul and he is 13, just needed to say it. After the first surf session, i was so happy but so exhausted tho. My throat was still hurting and i still felt out of breath. The first thing i did was drinking water after holding my board and walking on the sand hills to get back to the club. Back to the club, like i said it, i drank some water then i washed my licra (it's a waterproof tee shirt with the name of the club on it that you wear for not loosing your group and so the teachers will see you) so i washed it then i took off my wetsuit that i washed too. After that i saw some other teachers, their name were : Dorian, Theo, Jordan, Quentin, Manu and then Marco. Not gonna lie, i found dorian really pretty when i saw him. He looks exactly like The duke Simon in Bridgerton, but like the exact same person so i was a little bit confused. Manu, i already knew him cuz when i was taking surf classes, 3 years ago, he was already here. At that time of the week, i didn't know the name of all the teachers except for Marco and Manu but i didn't the others. After that exhausted day, i went back to my home and continued my life.

Those are real facts and stories. Day 2 coming !