AM20: The Japan Journals

Day 55

May 25th

Thanks to the surprise track day tomorrow, the plan is to cram in as much sightseeing as I can today. First and foremost, I'm going to visit the Asuka and Sakurai monuments near Nara. It's been said that these monuments represent the original capital of the country, as some of the oldest remnants of their culture can be found here.

In addition to this visit, I'll swing by the legendary Himeji Castle. Unlike its historical peers, Himeji stands strong as one of the best preserved structures from the past. Each place is roughly 45 minutes from Osaka, in opposite directions. I decided to head over to Asuka and Sakurai first, as the remaining morning glimmer parallels the upbringing of that place.

Asuka is close to Nara, so the roads were familiar on the morning ride. Speaking of which, a bit of early hour dew gives the road a slick surface. It's one of the rare mornings with a slippery commute, which is beneficial for my knobby tires. Usually, tires like mine aren't optimal for frequent road riding, as the bumpy textures are prone to grabbing cracks and holes in the road. Fortunately, these current road conditions benefit my choice of rubber.

I opted not to try any specific maneuvers on the ride, as my tires are still susceptible to hydroplaning in these conditions. The last thing I'd want to do is mimic the wipeouts you see from GP riders.

One thing I did get to evaluate though was my braking. I haven't changed the brake fluid (or pads) on this trip, so I was eager to see how these conditions tested my front and rear brakes. Despite the slippery conditions, both brakes held up fairly well. I can tell that the front brake pad is getting a little worn, so that may be something I change out in the next week or two.

After an hour on the slick highway, I made my way into the village of Asuka. When you arrive in town, you are instantly greeted with artifacts from the past. Amongst many things, you can see the first Buddhist Temple that was built in the country (Asukadera). Because of its historical presence, I started my jaunt through the village there. Since this was the first established Temple in Japan, it also housed a Buddhist statue.

The name of the Temple is Asuka Daibutsu. While other Temples have come along and have been built with more grandiose architecture, Asuka Daibutsu is the first (and remarkably), longest standing Temple. That in it of itself was a must see.

Daibustu is only the start, as Asuka has a designated trail leading you to different Temples around the village. I spent a bit of time bouncing between Temples, but honestly, I don't have a ton of notable moments to describe the experience. The idea that Asuka Daibutsu is the first Temple officially built in the country was enough of a sight to see.

On the flip side, Asuka village has these stone structures that were incredibly thought provoking to observe. According to the locals I've spoken to, these stones have been here as far back as the 7th century and the history behind their placement is unknown. The most popular stone amongst the group is called the Tortoise Stone (Kame-ishi).

The turtle shaped mass has become synonymous with local tourism, as stories about the stone have gone back for centuries. One myth says that the stone used to face in an eastward direction. At some point, the stone was turned and locals have warned that if it were turned again, the entire area would be covered in mud. Yeah, I think this myth is a little far-fetched.

I continued my tour of these stones, as some of the others have actual carvings engraved in them. Everything from a "Two faced stone" to a "monkey stone" can all be found here. The meaning behind these particular stones are varied (and sometimes vague) but all seem to espouse certain virtues to live by. It might be a stretch to say that this is Japan's equivalent of "Easter Island" and their stones, but there's definitely an err of mystery surrounding this ancient village.

After I made my way through the village and had a packed lunch, I hurried back to the DZed and mapped out the coordinates for Himeji. The city is located about 45 minutes northwest of Osaka, so it looks like I'll have around 90 minutes to cruise along the familiar highways. The trip is a bit long, for only one attraction. If it wasn't for your suggestion, I probably would have blown by the castle as just another tourist trap. To my surprise, I was wrong about that assumption.

Shortly after arriving in Himeji, I was on the castle grounds. Looking up at the tiered structure of this castle leaves nothing to the imagination. The castle is typically referred to as Hakuro-jo, which loosely translates to "white castle". Although it has seen periods of renovation, the original foundation of the castle was built in 1333. It was home to the ruler of the region, Akamatsu Norimura.

Since then, Himeji Castle has passed through several clans and ruling families until the Meiji period, when the castle was abandoned. While it's history is deep and full of intrigue, it's clear that the best trait of this landmark is its perseverance.

Unlike many landmarks from its era, it has largely remained intact and foundationally sound since its inception. Because of its sturdy, timeless presence, it has been recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Site. The landscaping around the castle is pristine, which only accentuates its royal lineage. I was fortunate enough to befriend a retired local, who told me some folk tales about the Castle. I won't try to recite any, as there's a lot of context to each one. Needless to say, a place like Himeji Castle lends itself to grandiose tales.

As cool as the Castle visit was, all I could think about was the track day tomorrow. I bid adieu to Himeji and headed back to Osaka. The rest of my day was spent going through the motions, as I began strategizing my impending track ride. No amount of Ramen or nightlife could take my attention off of this.

For that reason, I'm ending today's entry here. I want to make sure I get a night's sleep as I want every ounce of my energy put into tomorrow.

Thanks again and I'll see you soon!

-Ayden