Surfer Gurl

Chapter 2: Journey

Time skip to a couple of days later

    I paddled out. Arms starting to burn, breathing becoming more heavier, and waves becoming slightly bigger. It was a Saturday morning. Dawn patrol to be exact. Morning and evenings are always the best times to surf in my opinion. Skies are prettier and the waves are usually at their prime. I sat on my board to turn it around and chill. These waves were good, but not deadly. I need to die on these waves, that's how badly I have to practice.

     I looked back and caught a glimpse of what I thought to be a perfect wave. I laid back on my board and started to paddle. And before you know it, I was standing up riding that wave perfectly. So smooth, I flowed with the wave and entered a barrel. I bent my knees a little lower after coming out of that barrel. Distributing my weight evenly across my short board puts pressure on my toes to create a bottom turn. I did those a few times adding in two airs. Which is doing slight flips in the air. Similar to ollies like in skating. I can just picture Malia saying 'Show off. I taught her that move.'

     I came alone today because I needed to clear my mind and because it makes me feel more connected to my parents in a way. My parents were really into surfing like I am. It's how I fell so in love with surfing. Ever since I could walk and talk, I was always at the beach.

(Flashbacks in Italics and present day in normal font. This is Makenna thinking about a memory while surfing)
3 person:

    "The waves are getting too big," The announcer said all over the speakers. "It appears that the judges are calling off the race. It's too risky," whistles were blowing, red flags were waving frantically. "Is that Moani Bryant taking off on that wave?!" The announcer says in shock. "And Carter Bryant is following?" She paddled out determined to hop on that wave in stormy weather. Carter follows, trying to stop her. "It seems like Carter is trying to stop her, but she's not budging. What is she doing?"
    "I got this Carter!" She pushes him off

    Makenna started picking up speed. Anger in her eyes raging, she bent her knees lower leaning forward to go faster.

    "She wants to die, that's for sure," the other announcer chuckles.

    "She is going all in for it folks," he says.

    Kai, at the beach, noticed Makenna on that deadly wave. He waved his hands shouting for Makenna to paddle in or she'd possibly die. She noticed him, but continued to ride the wave wanting to show off to her crush.

    "Wait, I lost her. Where did she go?"
    ...
    "HPD and EMS are on the scene. It's not looking to hot folks,"
Flash out
    Makenna started losing control of the wave and before you know it, she fell off of her board and hit her head on the reef causing her to black out.
    "Makenna!" He shouted. worried and anxious, Kai quickly ran to the nearest Jet-ski and drove out to rescue her.

    "Makenna I don't know if you can hear me. It's Kai, I've come to rescue you," Once he got to her, he hopped off the jet-ski and swam to her. He checked her pulse to make sure she was alive. Luckily she was. Carrying Makenna on his back, they both got on the jet-ski safely. Makenna could feel all the commotion from Kai carrying her, to the bumpy jet-ski ride, that she started to wake up.

    "What about my board?" Weary, she asks Kai, lifting her head off of his shoulders.

    "I could only take one thing at a time," he shouts over the loud engine.

    "No, but I can't leave it. It's my mom's board. You have to go back!" She says frantically.

    "I have to get you to shore first. Then I'll go back," he says.

    "No, just bring me back to my board and I'll paddle in," she argues.

    "I can't let you do that. You hit your head pretty hard," Makenna touches her head near the spot that hit the reef. She winces in pain.

    "That explains the migraine," she mumbles. They made it to shore safely and someone managed to grab her board for her bringing it in with them.

    "So I was thinking, lunch?" Kai suggested. "I mean it's the least you can do since I saved you,"

    "Dudes got jokes," she laughed. "Why not? And you pick,"

    "Sounds like a plan, let me just grab my stuff,"