Learn How To Surf
Learning how to surf can be a life changing experience. Surfers enjoy the rush of dropping into a glassy wave, flying along the wave face, more often than not in some of the most exotic and exiting places on earth. If that sounds appealing read our learn to surf guide below which will provide all of the basics you'll need to know before taking your first surf lesson or hiring your first surfboard. If you learn how to surf correctly you'll progress much more rapidly from a surf school beginner to becoming a real surfer.
Choose the Right Spot
Surf breaks vary enormously and if you try to learn at the wrong one it can slow down the learning process no end, possibly get you hurt and label you as a nuisance to other surfers. The answer is to forget reef breaks (surf breaking over, rock, coral etc) and heavy, hollow beach breaks and pick a beach with an easy, spilling, mushy break wave in the 2-4ft range. It may not be glamorous but it will be the best place to start. Also try and find a spot with no crowds- battling with hundreds of other beginners and more experienced surfers is not the way to go. If you have a little space it will be easier to learn.
Paddling
You have your new surfboard under your arm and you've chosen a mushy, uncrowded spot for a surf, it's now time to paddle out! Paddling is an essential surfing skill so lots of practice at this will bring its rewards. Start in small waves and if possible paddle out when there is a lull in the waves. It's best to walk your board out until you are in waist deep water, then lay your body on the deck of your surfboard. On a shortboard keep your weight centred on the middle of the board and on a longboard position yourself so the nose is around 1inch out of the water. The trick is to find the optimum trim position for the board which will provide least resistance when paddling. Once you feel the board gliding through the water with ease you'll have found the ideal trim, so remember your position and stick with it.
Start to paddle using a crawl stroke with your arms, using cupped hands to increase the pull. If you hit bumpy water or "chop", lift your chest slightly and lessen your weight on the board so the nose and rails don't go under. Once you have learnt to balance your right and left sides, head, and legs, paddle your board out to the lineup you're on the way!
Angle on a Wave
Once you've mastered paddling and standing, it's time to climb to the next level of waveriding. The real aim of any surfer is to angle along on the open face of the wave parallel with the beach, getting the longest possible ride with the greatest amount of speed. You should decide which direction (right or left) you will ride as you begin paddling for an oncoming wave. Understanding and predicting wave behaviour will come with time, but how you approach your drop-in will depend on the type of wave you are riding. If you are surfing a mushy, sloping wave, then you may want to start angling to the right of left even while you paddle which is a more effective use of the wave's energy and helps you to stay ahead of the whitewater.
However, on a more critical/hollow wave, a surfer must follow his/her dropline to the flat trough of the wave in order to avoid digging a rail or nose and thus falling during the drop. The technique of turning the surfboard is relatively simple. While keeping a low centre of gravity with legs bent at the knees, lightly lean your weight in the direction you choose and towards the wave face. This will push the rail into the water and create a keel effect, cutting into the water and directing the board in the direction you choose. On a longboard the principle is the same but you will need to use the rear section of your board to turn, if you lean whilst too far forward the rail will dig and its end of ride.
Follow these tips and you should soon be up and riding your first wave and life will never be the same again! Enjoy.
