the whisper of the waves

All I could see that morning, as the sun shone down blinding me, was the mere distance between myself and the ocean. Board in hand, waxed and ready to go, I started running, sprinting even. All I wanted was to feal the cool water, the waves, and the wind.

In the water was really the only place I ever felt at home. My whole family used to tease that I was half mermaid! I learned how to surf at the age of ten, I am now 17.

When people ask why I started surfing they usually expect an answer about boys and trying to get a nice body. The answer? I love the feeling of standing above the water, such a vast being, it could kill me. I like the vulnerability of the waves. How one mistake could, in turn, take my life. 

I know a lot of people listen to or play music, make art, or do something else very skillful, where people can see their work and know how they were feeling. But me? I surf. To get out anger. To relieve stress. To have fun. 

If I ever have a bad day I can go to the beach, take my board, and just float. Even if there are no waves I paddle out. I can sit on that board for hours and just think. My surf board is where I make life's most difficult decisions.