THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN ***
Produced by University of Michigan Digital Library, Nikola Smolenski, Sankar Viswanathan, and Online Distributed Proofreading Team at Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net
THE LAND OF THE BLACK MOUNTAIN
THE ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISHMEN IN MONTENEGRO
BY
REGINALD WYON AND GERALD PRANCE
WITH FIFTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS
"SOME GLIMPSING AND NO PERFECT SIGHT"
CHAUCER
NEW AND CHEAPER ISSUE
METHUEN & CO. 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. LONDON
_First Published March 1903 New and Cheaper Issue 1905_
[Illustration: H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO]
DEDICATED BY KIND PERMISSION
TO
H.R.H. PRINCE NICOLAS OF MONTENEGRO
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
Montenegro's geographical position--Character of the people--Their honesty, patriotism, and love of arms--Likeness to the Homeric Greeks--The women--Montenegrin manners, vices, heroism, lack of privacy, police--Goodness of the Prince--The national costume--Religion--Hatred of Austria--Russia's friendship
CHAPTER II
History from first conquest by the Romans, 300 B.C., down to the present Prince--Fruits of the last campaign--Education--The military system--Legal administration--Crime--Government--The educated classes
CHAPTER III
The journey to Montenegro--Arrival in Cattaro--Beauty of the Bocche, and the drive to the frontier--First impressions of Montenegro--Njegusi--The national troubadours--Arrival in Cetinje
CHAPTER IV
Cetinje and its sights--Prince Nicolas--The Archbishop--The barracks--The princes--A visit to the prison and its system--Our departure for Podgorica
CHAPTER V
The view from Bella Vista--New scenery--Promiscuous shooting--The market in Rijeka--The shepherds--Their flocks--Wayside hospitality--The plain of the Zeta--The Moraca--The Vizier bridge--Old war-marks--First and last impressions of Podgorica
CHAPTER VI
Podgorica--Its central position--Our headquarters--Easter in Montenegro--Our experience of it--We view the town--The prison and its inmates--Christian and Mahometan friction--The modern town--The market and the armed buyers--The Black Earth--Easter customs--Montenegrin methods of doing business
CHAPTER VII
Medun--Voivoda Marko--His life and business--His part in Montenegrin history--Our ride to Medun--His widow--We visit his grave--The Death Dirge--Montenegrin customs at death--Target practice--Our critics--The hermit of Daibabe--We visit Spuz--A typical country inn and a meal--The Turkish renegade gives his views on warfare--Dioclea
CHAPTER VIII
Achmet Uiko tells his story--Sokol Baco, ex-Albanian chief--Shooting on the Lake of Scutari--Our journey thither--Our frustrated nap--Arrival at the chapel--The island of Vranjina--The priest--Fishing and fishermen--Our visitors--We return to Podgorica
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