SHE PIROUETTED, PREENED HERSELF, AND TRIPPED AWAY

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Friday, November 29, 1991

5:50 PM – Seated in my little Chinese cafe across from the market.

The first hooker just walked by

Another hour and the bars and prostitutes will have taken over this street.

There are less disreputable areas to eat, but what the hell, this place is clean

and, as long as I vacate for safer premises before dark

- interesting things go on here.

The Chinese lady, fortyish, rules the roost.

She believes war (of words anyway) to be the answer.

Earlier, an old fellow and I were walking along.

A derelict slept by a wall, his face a mass of fresh bruises and cuts

from having had the supreme shit kicked out of him.

"You see thing like this in Canada?"

"Oh yeah!"

"How about this?", pointing to an odorous, monstrous, rotting heap of garbage.

I don't answer.

Another beautiful young lady passes outside.

La Prensa today carried the first of a series of in depth "prostitution articles".

Interviews with a couple of Colombian mid-twenties prostitutes,

recruited under false pretenses.

One had her Bachelor of Commerce degree, the other a diploma in computers.

They'd disembarked from the plane here - and guess what?

A $600 debt for the ticket, documents, etc.

And guess how they had to work to pay it back?

Both were single parents.

A spider patrols the wall in my booth.

The odd crazy drifts in and out.

I order another coffee from Dragon Lady, and give her two dollars, wondering

how much change I'll get back?"

Beef, fried rice and two coffee - change 45 cents.

Another pair of legs strides by out there.

Music from somewhere.

It's getting dark.

Maybe I've overstayed my welcome?

Should pack my knife I guess.

Through the front door I spy evil-looking gentlemen sizing me up.

The genteel, grey-haired cop saunters by nonchalantly.

The entrance to the market is now barred.

Another lady of the night crosses my vision.

Three blocks to my hotel.

Later, in hotel room, a million-dollar shower.

7:15 PM – Feel like going out in search of excitement. Resist the urge.

Thursday, December 5, 1991

SHE PIROUETTED, PREENED HERSELF, AND

TRIPPED AWAY HIGHER THAN A KITE

Panama City – Restaurant Nuevo Pacifico (across from market)

8:45 PM – Holy Smokes it's getting busy out there.

Way past the time for me to be wandering this area.

Cops are sort of patrolling

in a foursome – three guys and a gal.

Fairly serious drinking out on the sidewalk.

Young men sleeping all around the front of the market,

some on pieces of cardboard.

Stopped in at Cantina Norte for a giant beer,

then landed in the hotel room 9 PM.

Feeling in a good mood

– things seem to be falling into place (maybe).

One characteristic of Panamanians

that I noticed again in the bar

When they hear a really catchy all-Panamanian song,

they will individually chime in,

usually out of tune. Or whistle, which is worse,

with whistling skills developed in stopping buses

or expressing appreciation of women.

I'm struck by the number of big muscular guys

wandering the market/dock area tonight.

They seem peaceable - fortunately.

Friday, December 6, 1991

10:30 – Restaurant Nuevo Pacifico. A four-year-old Chinese girl, the proprietor's daughter, shares my booth.

Plaza Mayor 1:20 PM. On a sea wall overlooking the Pacific end of the Canal.

A big ship labeled WALLENIUS LINES is behind the causeway,

moving out to sea. Cars on the causeway seem ant-sized.

The tide's coming in.

3 PM – Cantina Norte. Checked out various plazas,

including Plaza de Francia, built to honour the Frenchmen

who first tried to dig a ditch across the isthmus.

Earlier, a strikingly beautiful and strikingly filthy girl of seventeen or eighteen

fluttered out from an entrance to an outdoor shop or garage and into the street.

She wore shorts, a sleeveless T-shirt and an overshirt.

Her back was filthy, as were the backs of her bare legs.

The dirt was fresh.

She extended her arms like wings,

pirouetted,

preened herself in several cars' side windows,

and tripped away,

stoned higher than a kite.

There's a big picture of Saddam Hussein

on the bartender's white T-shirt,

with cross-hairs centered on the forehead,

and the words

INTERNATIONAL TARGET

WAR RESULTS IN DEATH.

These Panamanians like to shout.

A shouter just came in.

Earlier, near the ocean,

I heard a formidable uproar

coming from somewhere near.

Sounded like a drunken brawl.

Nope, just four or five old guys

enjoying a quiet beer

at a pensioners' club!

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