Land of the Ranas

EKLINGJI'S KINGDOM

In a narrow gorge on the road to the temple town of Nathdwara from Udaipur, lies the temple complex of Eklingji. Surrounded on all sides by the Aravalli Hills, existing since time immemorial. The summits of the hills, scarped from centuries of erosion, home to swarms of wild bees, their honey combs, hanging precariously from the cliffs around. Dotted with shrubs, which quench their thirst, from the numerous springs on the hills. One of them is the oleander (or kinar as it is called in local parlance), believed to be the favorite flower of the reigning deity of Eklingji. The complex itself dating back to 971 AD is believed to have around 108 temples within its high walls. Like most other Hindu temples, this too was destroyed by Muslim invaders, during the numerous wars and rebuilt once again. The main temple dating back to the 15th century was rebuilt, after it was destroyed in an earlier invasion.

The main temple, has a 50' high Shikara (the tower) crowning it with a circumference of around 60', rising from the perpendicular walls of the body of the building. Like most Saivite temples, the Shikara here is pyramidal in structure, and its apex is crowned by the ornamental figure of an urn. The shrine of Eklingji made of white marble sits proudly beneath a huge canopy, covering two floors. And in the sanctum sanctorum, lies the shrine of Eklingji, a manifestation of Shiva that literally translates to "One Linga". The five faced Shiva Linga made of black stone, was installed here during the mid-15th century by Maharana Raimal. The eastern part of the idol symbolizes that of Surya, the Sun God, while the western part symbolizes the creator Brahma. The northern face symbolizes Vishnu, the Preserver, while the Southern part is the Destroyer, Rudra. The huge pyramidal roof is dotted with intricate sculptures, while the 25000 sq. ft. temple clearly shows influences of the Solanki style of architecture, prevalent in Gujarat. The four doors of the sanctum sanctorum, face all the four directions, with precious stones engraved in the steps. At each of the four gates, you have the statue of Nandi, the bull Vahana of Shiva, who also is his faithful attendant, facing its master. The western gate from where the sunlight comes in to the temple has a silver idol of Surya, the Sun God. The eastern gate has lattices to circulate fresh air, and on the north are two tanks, Tulsi Kund and Karz Kund.

But the interesting part of the temple, goes beyond its architecture, backdrop and location. It is the spiritual significance, the place has with the region surrounding it. The reigning deity of the temple is the one who rules the land. Eklingji is not just the patron deity of Mewar, he is the actual ruler of it. And the Ranas who pay obeisance to him, consider themselves as his mere custodians. It is important to note that the Ranas of Mewar, don't consider themselves as rulers of the land. They believe they are just mere Dewans for the actual ruler Eklingji. It is not exactly unique, for example the rulers of Travancore, to date consider themselves as humble dasas of their ruling deity Padmanabhaswamy

Mewar, the realm of Eklingji, a name in the history of India, that evokes memories of valor, of defiance, of honor and of a glorious heritage. Yet if I had to just sum up Mewar in one line, it would be "A fiercely independent and defiant streak". A defiant streak not just among the men, but among the women too. This was after all the land of Meera Bai, who defied all conventions in her steadfast devotion to Krishna. Of the beautiful Padmini, who preferred to jump into the fire, rather than end up being a slave in the harem of Allaudin Khilji. The land of Jaimal and Patta, who fought to the end against Akbar's invading army, and died in their defense of Chittorgarh.

Thrice was Chittorgarh attacked, by Allaudin Khilji, Bahadur Shah and Akbar, and every time, they had to encounter the toughest resistance ever. Its women folk, preferred to throw them on the fire, than become a part of the enemy's harem. And Chittorgarh had to pay a heavy price for its resistance, on all the three occasions, its inhabitants were massacred brutally after the capture of the fort. This was the land of Rana Kumbha, a giant of a personality physically and metaphorically, who built something called the Great Wall of India, to keep invaders out. And of Rana Sangha, the king who lost an eye, was injured in one arm, yet was the toughest opponent of the Sultanate, before treachery did him in. Of Panna Dhai, who preferred to sacrifice her own son, for the future of Mewar. And above all of Maharana Pratap. When other Rajput rulers were surrendering to Akbar, one man who refused to do so, and took him head on. Maharana Pratap, a man, who preferred to sacrifice luxury and comfort, over his dream of liberating Mewar from the Mughals.

Mewar the land over which Eklingji rules, lies in the Southern part of Rajasthan, primarily covering the districts of Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Rajsamand, Bhilwara, Pratapgarh and Dungarpur, bordering Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh. On a map of Rajasthan, the region roughly resembles a rectangle, with a length of 240 km, a breadth ranging between 130-160 Km and an overall area of 20,921 sq. km. The name is believed to have come from another name of its ruling deity, Medhapateshwar. In due course of time, the name Medhapat, slowly got corrupted to Mewar. The upper part of the region is an undulating table land sloping towards the north east, while the south west is pretty much a wild country made up of hills, rocks and jungles. Flanked on the North East by the princely state of Ajmer, and sharing borders with Malwa( now in MP) and another princely state of Bundi in the South East. On the South West, lies Gujarat and towards the North West lies the region of Marwar. The Aravallis run across the North West and South East respectively, touching their highest on the Western side, where the peaks can rise to more than 4500 feet above sea level.

In one of those high ranges, the region's principal river, Banas originates, before it eventually joins the Chambal after travelling east by north east. Udaipur the region's largest city, and its capital lie in a corner, located in a large valley. While there are three passes leading to Udaipur, from the eastern side, the western part is virtually inaccessible. Chittorgarh, the fortress of many a legend and battle, is located in the South West, flanked by the Satpuras. A major part of this region is forests, hills, inhabited by the Bhil tribal, who would play a vital role in the history of Mewar. Compared to the wildness of the southern part, the north of the Aravallis is more fertile, with rivers flowing through it. Small villages dot the valleys, most of them engaged in farming. The valleys here are home to variegated quartz and slate, which is primarily used for the roofing of homes and temples. There were abundant resources of tin and silver here, but not much to be seen around now. This is the glorious land of the Ranas, a land that held out for centuries against invaders, coveting its rich mineral resources.