Ch.1

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The water was pretty choppy today. But knowing me I thought i could still ride a couple. I start to paddle out, couple feet away from the warning booie, where the waves first start to rise. I couldn't feel any waves let alone a little lift. I decide too just paddle back to shore. "Maybe I will catch some curls tomorrow" I think to myself. I've always wanted to ride a maverick but could never catch one, I always ended up with a mouth full of salt water, but something told me that this was the summer.

I'm paddling in since I'm obviously not catching any waves. Then I feel my board rise underneath me. I felt it. I paddle as hard as I could and as fast as I could , I grab the sides of my board for stability to stand. I'm doing it ! I'm in a barrel! Riding a maverick!!!! I can see the barrel closing ahead of me and the last thing I want is to be stuck in the mess with a brutal wipe out. I lean forward hoping to speed up. Bad choice. The nose of my board hit something and I was gone. I felt my board slip out form underneith me and I can feel the cord getting tighter around my ankle. It was stuck I couldn't swim up to the surface. I open my eyes and see that it's stuck on a reef. Then the salt gets to me and my eyes burn! I detach the cord and start to swim I'm above water now sitting on top of the reef to see how far out I am. Closer than I thought I was. I can see pretty clear to the shore. That's when I saw him. Beautiful tan. His hair shinning in the sunshine and as he runs his fingers through it I can see some sand fall. For those few seconds it was oblivion. Next thing you know it was black.

I woke up on the beach. 2 or three people around me. I flipped ! I didn't know what was going on! Then I saw the same guy before it went black, leaning over me. "Are you alright! You wiped out pretty rough out there" he says to me " nah I'm good just a minor wipe out" I say back with a chuckle. "Don't think your board would agree with you on that one" he says pointing to what was my surfboard. Cracked straight down the middle. I stand up and stable myself and glance around. After I said I was ok people went back to there life's. But the boy with sandy hair didn't. He stuck around.

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