Tides

Chapter 35 - Heats

DAX

The moment we have been waiting for has arrived. I hope all the hard training is worth it. We stand in front of the sea doing our warm-up routine. As I stretch, I see Anthony and Corey walk towards us with their boards. Anthony places his board on the sand and begins the exercise routine Jax taught us.

The music coming from the speakers is deafening, but we all look concentrated and determined. We finish our exercises and hear Anthony and Skye being called by the Contest Director over the speaker system. I look around and don't see Max. Maybe he is doing his set of stretches with a random girl.

My heart races in my chest when I watch Skye put on the competition vest the Beach Marshal hands him. Anthony and he grab their boards and get in the water. I feel anxious watching them paddle towards the start-up line. Skye heads left, so it means he has wave priority.

The announcer calls the start of the heat and now it's a matter of waiting and watching. The judges look intently at their monitors and a big crowd fills the high stands. Our families are here, but I don't see River or Maggie yet. Derek stands by the press area together with his team. Luna will record the heat for us to watch again later.

Skye paddles after a perfect wave passes under him. He stands on his board and goes down the wave, then makes a gentle turn towards the top of the tide. While going down again, Skye reverses the board completely. The wave powers his direction as he makes a snap back with the board fins, sending an impressive curve of water spray in the air. The wave still goes strong, and he twists his body towards the wave to do a 360 rotation. My chest is about to burst with pride. Skye continues doing turns and a cutback until the wave dies. An impressive start that for sure will get the judges' attention.

Anthony does a superb ride as well with a roundhouse and slides on the crest of the wave. He pumps for speed on the water wall and does an impressive backside floater in which the tail of his board was completely in the air.

Dad calls me as Anthony returns to the start-up line. I stand up from my spot in the sand and walk to him.

"Stop punching your legs before you get a bruise," Dad places his hands on my shoulders.

I've had the bad habit of punching my thighs to deal with nerves since I was a kid.

"Dad, I'm terrified," I say, and he nods in understanding.

"The conditions today differ from the day when you lost Natalie. Concentrate on this: lifeguard boat by the start-up line, another next to the rocky wall, divers and photographers to your left, and a first aid post behind us. Today the current heads to the right and away from the rocks," Dad point at places and I nod. "Do it for her."

My father hugs me and kisses my forehead. I sit again on the sand to watch the rest of the heat and think about Dad's words. Skye finishes and brings his competition vest back to mark the end of his participation of today. He then tumbles next to me, breathing fast and grinning.

"I don't give a fuck if we win or not. It was unbelievable out there!"

Anthony finishes his set, returns his vest and comes to lie next to us.

"Skye, you were off the hook!" he laughs.

Anthony enjoys himself a lot more since our planning started. It makes me happy to see him full of life again. Max and I get called by the Contest Director. Jax and I head to check in and the Beach Marshal hands me my vest. Max's name is announced again, but he doesn't come forward.

I look at Skye, and he shrugs. Anthony grins and says something in Skye's ear. My brother laughs and I wonder what's going on. The answer arrives quickly enough. Crush holds Max by the collar of his rash guard and pushes him forward. Max can barely stand straight, and I smell alcohol in his breath. He is drunk, or hung over, or a mix of both.

"Crush, this competitor isn't in a state to get in the water. Do you have a backup?" the organizer shakes his head and looks at his papers.

"I don't," Crush runs his fingers through his white hair. "The travel visa of my replacement didn't get approved on time."

His backup was Corey, but with Ryan out of the team, he became the third surfer. It was too late to find a suitable substitute among his roster.

"Barlow is disqualified. Kalani, you are on your own in this. Good luck," the director says after throwing a look of disgust at Max.

"Pack your shit. You're fired!" Crush says harshly to Max.

Max disqualification places Oceancrush at the bottom of the scoreboard. Unless another team screws as bad as them, it will be difficult to improve the score.

Colin hands me my board and I get in the water. It should be a quick set, thirty minutes at the most, as I don't need to wait for the other competitor. I duck under the waves to get quicker to the start-up line. I pay attention to the safety points my dad showed me and feel more confident.

A high wave forms and I roll down on it. I make a quick down-turn, a top turn, then a wide turn. The strength of the wave propels me into the air where I make a 360-degree turn. I land behind the wave and use the push from the upcoming one to ride on the crest while holding the rail of my board. I go down the wave and then do a nice snap back like Skye, sending water spray in the air.

I get how my brother feels. It doesn't matter if we win or lose because the feeling of freedom is amazing! I paddle back again to the start-up and wait patiently. I feel the rumble in my chest, competing with the excitement of my heart. A big wave forms behind me, and I paddle hard before the crest goes over me. The perfect tube curls as I stand up. Blue-green water walls surround me. I ride inside and leave a trail with my hand in the water. I get out of the tube and the aerial maneuver I attempt to do works. After riding on the tall crest for a while, I do quick turns until the wave dies at the shore.

The people at the beach cheer and clap. Skye and Luna talk by the barriers. My parents and Jax speak to the Contest Director who calls me back to the beach before I can head back to the start-up. I look again at the high stands and don't see River. There must be something wrong with him!

"What's going on?" I ask the moment I reach them.

"Maggie had to bring River back to the hospital," Dad tells me.

"Can we use our substitute for the last ride?" Jax asks the Contest Director.

"It's an out of the ordinary situation. I will speak to the judges," he walks away to the tent.

"I don't care if I get disqualified. We need to go to the hospital," I say.

Kay and Dylan run to us.

"Is it true? Is River sick?" Kay asks his dad.

"Yeah, he is. Dylan, we will need you once we get permission," Jax says.

The Contest Director returns and confirms Dylan can take my place. He pales for a second as he looks at the crowd.

"You can do this, dude," I say. Dylan nods and walks towards Colin.

Mom looks worried as we walk to the changing rooms. Alberto places his arm around her shoulders. Dad talks fast on the phone and says we will be at the hospital soon.

"We need dry clothes," Skye says and I follow him.

I don't even shower. I take off my wet clothes, throw them in a bag and change into a flannel shirt, clean shorts and sneakers. As I come out, I see Skye has not showered either. We can't waste time. Our family waits in the cars parked at the Boulevard. Lottie stands on the sidewalk with Boy and Henri.

"Lottie, I'm not sure when we will come back. Can you bring the boys home?" I give her my car keys.

"Don't worry about us. I hope everything turns okay with River," she kisses me before I get in the car with Skye.

The drive to the hospital feels long. Skye and I are silent. His jaw is set; he must feel as stressed as I do. In the short time we've known River, he has taken a place in our hearts. I fear what we will find when we arrive at the hospital.