Forbidden

Chapter 4

When we got closer to the water, Bryan and another boy, who introduced himself as Tristan, demonstrated the proper stance for surfing, which to be honest I found pretty self explanatory. Then they grabbed the biggest board, helped me get it in the water, and grabbed their own boards in as well. As we were getting ready to paddle out, I looked back and saw the third boy standing on the beach, talking on his phone. He saw me looking at him and motioned for me and the other guys to go out without him.

When got out to where the waves were breaking, Bryan and Tristan were very particular about which waves I could ride. It couldn't be too big, because I was "just a little kid" and "I could get hurt", but it couldn't be too small, because it'd be "too hard to catch". We sat there almost 10 minutes, which felt like an eternity. I started to get bored, and a bit annoyed. That's when strange things started happening.

The water around us started bubbling, and the surf picked up. The wind, which was barely noticible before, whipped through my hair. Dark clouds rolled in from every direction. Bryan and Tristan looked around with alarm.

"What the hell?!"

"Bryan, language! We've got a kid here!"

"We need to get to the beach!"

"No! I didn't catch a wave yet!"I cried out.

Brian looked at me and said, "We'll find one good wave, and ride it in to the beach, sound good?" I wasn't happy about that, but I agreed. I looked over my shoulder and spotted a wave on the horizon. It was about 20 feet, or 18 feet and 11inches to be exact.

"That one!" I exclaimed.

"What?! No that one is way to big for you!" Tristan argued, but I was already paddling. Before I knew it, I was riding the wave. It was like no feeling I'd ever known before. I was totally in control, yet completely at the mercy of the ocean. I slowly got to my feet and dropped down the face of the wave. It was exhilarating, like I was flying. I breathed the salty ocean air into my lungs, and couldn't imagine a place I'd rather be at that very moment in time. Nothing could shatter my euphoria... Except what happened next.