Point Break

Surfing adventures

(Danny POV)

I woke up and I grabbed my swimsuit and my sandals. I hear a beep from outside. "Hurry up Danny!" I hear my close friend Tyler exclaim. I chuckle as I run outside and I grab my surfboard from the front patio. "Hurry! The waves are gnarly this morning!" Tyler exclaims and I laugh as I hop in the car. Tyler starts driving and I stand up in my seat and I raise my arms up in the air and I laugh. After the drive Tyler parks the car and we both get out, I grab my blue surfboard and Tyler grabs her while and blue one. "Race ya." Tyler says and she starts running. "Ty you bitch!" I exclaim and I rush after her with a grin on my face. Tyler and I start surfing and I grin but if falls as I notice someone getting pulled under the current and I dive under and I grab them and I lift him onto my board. "Hold on! Hold on!" I exclaim to the guy as he falls. "Use your arms. Paddle, come on." I say and I bring him to the beach and Tyler follows me. "It's all right, come on you're okay." I say. "You crazy son of a bitch! You wanna commit suicide, you do it someplace else!" Tyler exclaims. The man continues spluttering and coughing. I look at his board and I roll my eyes realizing he probably had no clue on how to surf. "This pig-board piece of shit! You got no business out here whatsoever!" I exclaim and I start heading back on the water. "Hey! My name is Johnny Utah!" He exclaims and I turn to him. "Who cares?" I question. 

After a few hours of surfing Tyler and I decide to get ready for our shift at the shack. I grab a towel and I wrap it around my waist and I take off my shorts and I replace it with my jean shorts, I take off my long sleeve swim shirt leaving me in my bikini top and I put my yellow t-shirt on. I jump in the truck but what I didn't know was that someone was lurking in the back. Tyler and I started our shift. "Hey Dan, take the next person I gotta go really quick." Tyler says and I nod. "Next." I say while looking at the pad and pencil in my hand. I look up and I see the guy from before. "What do you want?" I question. "Shrimp and fries." He says and I roll my eyes. "I mean, what do you want? Why do you keep hanging around?" I question. "I need you to teach me." He says and I snicker slightly. "Gimme a break. Shrimp and fries...To-go. Would you like anything to drink with that sir?" I question the guy. "I'm serious." He say and I lean forward. "I can see that you're serious. Forget it. Stick to...Tennis. I don't know, whatever you do good. Miniature golf, your number is-" I say but am cut off by the guy. "You don't understand. I'm going to learn to surf or break my neck." He says and I raise a brow. "What is it? You all of a sudden got this bug that you have to go surfing?" I question and I look at him. "This is a line right?" I question. "No! No. See my whole life I've done things for other people. In high school I played football because my old man expected me to." He says. "Mm-Hm." I say while doodling on the pad but still listening. "Then my parents always figured I'd go to law school. So I did. Football scholarship." He says. "Is this going to be a long time?" I question. "Wait. So I'm a big hero to my folks right? But two years ago they were killed in a car wreck. You can't imagine it. Your whole life changes. And I suddenly realized that all of my goals had been their goals, and I hadn't been living my own life, so I wanted something for myself. So I come out here from Ohio a month ago. I'd never seen the ocean before. Any ocean. I never thought it would affect me so much. I'm drawn to it. Or something. I want to do what you do." He says.

I raise a brow with a small smile. "It's the truth." he says. "All right. Okay. Tomorrow here, 6 am! If you are one minute late, I'm gone and stud, I didn't take you on to raise so...I'll teach you a few things and after that you'll be on your own okay?" I question and he nods and leaves. "God!" I exclaim running a hand through my hair. "So you teaching the guy to surf huh?" Tyler questions and I jump and turn. "Yeah I mean, what could go wrong?" I question.

(The Next Morning)

I was walking with Johnny as we were looking for a good spot. "Stop here!" I exclaim and I turn to him. "You agree to do exactly what I say when I say it?" I question. "Sure." Johnny says. We are on the sand and I am instructing him. "Pop!" I exclaim and he repeats but doesn't pop up correctly. "You stand straight up, you'll fall over, so let's try it again." I say and he tries again and still doesn't get it right. "Start over. Just do it again." I say and he pops up again. "Hey what ya doin'?" I question. "Just do it again. Pop up." I say while rubbing my forehead. Eventually we got past the pop up aprt and I was teaching him his stance. "Stay low, you're gonna bite it."  say and he tries again. "You dragged your knee. You'll wipe out." I say and he tries yet again. "You're dragging your foot, you're gonna be fish food. Both feet have to land on the board at the same time." I say and he tries again and gets it right this time. "That's it. That's it. You're surfing." I say with a smile. "Ready to try on the water?" I question and Johnny nods. I grab my board and he grabs his and we go out on the water. "Alright get ready." I say as a wave comes and I watch as he pops up but looses balance. "Shit!" He exclaims and I start laughing. He tries again and he starts surfing. "Doing all right, city boy!" I exclaim. "Whoo!" Johnny exclaims happily. "You are surfing!" I exclaim. It soon turned dark and I grabbed my board and we both started walking when I see Bodhi.

"That's Bodhi. They call him Bodhisattva. He's a modern savage. He's a real searcher." I say. "What's he searching for?" Johnny questions. "The ride! The ultimate ride. The guy's even crazier than you Johnny." I say. I see Tyler and I run over to her but I am stopped as Bodhi throws Tyler over his shoulder and I start laughing. "Heads up!" Roach exclaims while the football soars and Johnny catches it. "That's a surfboard, all right. Looks like a Chevy I used to have." Nathanial says. I notice Tyler and Bodhi talking and I turn and see the football in the air and I jump and grab it. "Nice catch Danny." Bodhi exclaims. I mockingly bow with a smile. Soon we start our football game and I am on opposing teams against Johnny. "Ready! Set! Hut! Hut! Let's go!" Bodhi exclaims and the game starts. We continue scoring for each of our teams and I start laughing hysterically. "Ready. Set. Hut!" Bodhi exclaims and Johnny starts chasing him and tackles Bodhi in the water. "What the fuck is wrong with you? Don't you think that's a little out of line?" Roach exclaims angry. "Cool it Roach. Know who this is?" Bodhi exclaims as both Johnny and Bodhi get out of the water. "No, I don't!" Roach exclaims. "This is Johnny Utah, Ohio State Buckeyes, all conference. Remember?" Bodhi questions. "Number 9 how ya doing?" Bodhi questions while clapping Johnny's shoulder. "Jesus Christ! Johnny fuckin' Utah! Sorry man. Didn't mean to get in ya face." Roach says. 

" l knew l knew you. It was the Rose Bowl. Three years ago you beat SC." Nathanial says. "You? You did this?" I question in disbelief. "Yep, him! That was one hell of a game." Roach says. "No shit." I exclaim. "Yeah, but you got nuked in the last quarter." Bodhi says. "Yeah, l got my knee folded back about 90 degrees the wrong way!" Johnny says. "Whoa!" Babbit exclaims. "That's why you never went pro?" Bodhi questions. "Two years of surgery, missed my window. Went to law school instead." Johnny says. "Law school!" Bodhi exclaims. "You're a lawyer?" I question and Johnny nods. "Wow! Well, life's not over yet, man. You're surfing." Bodhi says. "Lawyers don't surf!" A rando exclaims. "This one does." Bodhi says. "Let's play some football!" A man exclaims and I grin as we continue playing. 

After a while I yawned quietly and Tyler noticed. "I'll take her home." Johnny says and Tyler nods slowly. "You kill her, I'll kill you." Tyler says and I laugh as I stand up grabbing my board. "You coming Utah?" I question and he nods grabbing his board. "See ya." I say while waving to the guys and Tyler. "So Danny is your name huh?" Johnny questions. "Yep, but not Dani, more like Danny." I say spelling them out. "Nice name." He says and I chuckle. "Folks wanted a boy, decided on Danny so they kept it." I say and he nods. "Where are they now?" He questions. "Boating accident when I was 7, met Tyler then the guys." I say and he looks at me then the road. "I'm real sorry." He says and I sigh. "It's fine." I say then I look up at him. "Not like you did anything to kill 'em." I say and he laughs with me. "Oh I'm right here." I say pointing to my house. "Thanks for the ride Johnny." I say getting out of the truck and grabbing my board. I start walking to my house when Johnny calls me. "Danny! Will I see you tomorrow?" He questions and I smirk. "Maybe." I say and I grab my key from the plant and I open the door and walk inside my house. 'What a day.'