Under the water

The big wave

" I'm off dad," Riley declared as she opened the door with her surfboard in her hand

" Be Careful," dad said as he glazed at his daughter

" I'll be fine I promised," Riley sighted

" Ok see you later," dad waved, still with a concerned look

" Bye," Riley waved back as she shut the door

Riley turned around and walked down the driveway then into the sidewalk. Riley looked left and right then speed walked across the road to the other side where the beach was. Soon Riley crossed she could see the ocean view right in front of her. She held her board up and stared at for a few seconds then ran to the water. Right before she was going to go into the water her friend came right in front of her.

" oh, hi Logan," Riley said surprised

" Hey Riley, if you wait a few minutes there's a big wave that beats the last state Record there was," Logan informed

" Awesome!!!," Riley exclaimed

" so are you going to surf it?," Logan asked

" Of course who wouldn't," Riley rolled her eyes" are you?"

" No way I'm not going to surf that, talk to the hand Riley," Logan said

Riley laughed," what are you so afraid of anyway?"

" 1: I might crash or drown 2: I might get eaten by a shark 3: I'm afraid of heights 4: I don't have great balance and 5: I can't do any tricks," Logan pointed out

" Whatever anyway if you want you can watch me if you want to you don't have to," Riley said

" I might watch oh and I think we should stop talking because soon the wave will come," Logan reminded Riley

" Right will see you Logan," Riley waved

" Bye," Logan said as he walked away

Riley waited a few minutes for the wave to come until it finally came. The wave kept forming and getting bigger until it was as big as two palm trees stacked together. Riley toke a deep breath and ran into the water, soon she was deep enough Riley got on her board and started paddling. The wave got closer and closer to her, she turned around then got up and stranded on her board. She looked back to see where the wave was, it was right by her it lifted Riley up all the way up on top of the wave, Riley wasn't ready she lost her balance and fell backwards into the ocean.