All I Am (Wattys2015) (ON HOLD)

Chapter 10

Chapter 10

She had managed to resist. Barely. Watching Maddy surf was almost an addiction – something she looked forward to every day. And there was more than likely something on Youtube of him. Probably a lot of videos.

Friday Blue woke up and lied in bed for a half hour thinking about how she could see him again. Had she barely met him just over a week ago? It seemed impossible.

She felt heavy. Worried. Pained. Worse than she usually felt when dealing with her mom's problems. Like she never wanted to leave her bed.

Finally, at 7:30, Blue pulled herself out from her duvet. She wondered what Maddy's duvet smelled like. Probably like his aftershave. And maybe his cologne, if he wore any.

Blue shook her head violently while sitting up. What was wrong with her? These ideas shouldn't even be in her thought process. She got off her bed and went upstairs. It was raining so she would have to skip her morning run.

Piri was gone for a doctor's appointment in Henderson and Sage was still asleep, which left the upstairs of the house to Blue. She put some water in the kettle, turned it on and poured some instant coffee into a white mug.

While waiting for the water to boil Blue walked over to the window and pulled the curtains back, looking outside. The waves were choppier than usual. Bigger. They were close to 2.5 meters. Blue thought about Maddy. He was almost certainly out there. And he wasn't big. His frame was small, but he was muscular and probably as heavy as the other bigger surfers.

The desire was suddenly too great. Blue had to go watch him. She glanced back at the water kettle, out the window, then turned and ran back down the stairs quietly.

In her room she changed into a pair of jeans, a t-shirt and a black raincoat. Then she pulled on a pair of boots. On her way out she turned her room light off and shut the room door behind herself. If she was back quick enough her mom might not even know she had left.

Blue ran down the driveway, across the road and down the damp sand path. Her blonde hair was already soaked. She was hypnotized as she watched the grey waves with white caps crash against Lion Rock. They sent spray 2 plus meters into the air.

And the waves; they were bigger than she had thought. Close to 3 meters. Something that would obviously scare off all other groms, as there was one surfer out and one alone – Maddy.

Blue watched him cut across a wave. A shiver ran down her back. He truly made this watersport that she had observed her whole life look magical. He looked more comfortable than she'd ever seen him before. The heavy wave was towering way over him. He looked serene. Calm. He slowly pumped his board before completing a bottom turn, then a roundhouse cutback.

Another set of waves crashed into Lion Rock. Tubing waves out back sent mist flying up as they folded over. Whitewater adorned the tops of every wave. The morning was like none Blue had ever seen before.

Maddy rode along the face of the wave, not doing much except staying upright. The wave had an exceptionally long face, which meant he could ride it much longer than the average ride time.

He had on the same wetsuit as always. That royal blue arm had burnt an image in Blue's mind. His hair was damp, but not dripping wet. The blonde still glinted. Blue's eyes were subconsciously drawn to his thighs. He was muscular. Strong. When she came to her senses she blinked rapidly, trying to pull her eyes away from his hips and waist. She refocused.

Just then, Maddy turned the board so it was pointing towards the beach and rode the wave out into the whitewater. He then jumped off the board, landing in mid thigh-high water. He picked the board up under his left arm and turned around. He watched the heavy sets of water coming at him. Then he turned so he was facing Blue and started walking into the beach. His head was down so he wasn't looking at her.