Once Upon A Surf

Chapter Twenty Eight

My bare feet hit the warm sand and the nerves disappeared.

I looked around the beach, taking in the huge crowd, the chatter among people, the bright sunlight making colors vibrant. My eyes found Donna, on the phone at her towel, Courtney standing and talking to some reporters, the other two competitors studying the waves. Kelly was off to the side with a group of boys, Taryn tanning on the beach next to her.

"Five minutes," I heard Drew and turned my head slightly to see him and Abbi walking towards me. "You can do this."

I nodded. "I know."

My gaze fixed on the waters and I took in a deep breath, the heavy scent of the salty air filling my lungs. Closing my eyes, I felt all the exhaustion from the previous night fade away, the ocean refueling my soul.

"Can the competitors line up, please?"

I offered a smile at my group of friends, picking up my board and walking with determination to the shoreline. My eyes found Courtney's and I saw hers flare up in shock, though I looked away and focused back on the waters.

"You're incredible. It's like you belong out on these waves."

Waves crashed against my feet, the cool water soothing my tingling nerves.

"I've never seen anyone land a move like that before."

A seagull cawed overhead as the announcer read off the rules to the crowd.

"You're practically half mermaid."

The countdown started and I felt my heart rate pick up slightly.

"Win this one for yourself."

"Five, four, three—"

"You're a fighter. Now go out there and fight."

At the sound of the buzzer, I leapt into the water, all thoughts erased from my mind. Instantly the surf calmed me, my body relaxing at the feeling of the water as I began paddling out into the depths. The crisp blue waves rocked my board slightly and I felt a smile rise to my lips as I ducked under a small wave, emerging from the waters and sucking in a deep breath. For the first time in hours, I felt like I was truly breathing—and I reveled in the feeling.

My eyes caught a slight break off to my right and I paddled towards it, determined to catch the first wave of the meet. No one else seemed to notice the swelling waters, that or they didn't care. I met the wave as it was rising, turning and paddling hard, letting the waters carry me forward. When the wave hit its peak I leapt up, my feet landing on the board smoothly.

And instantly, everything was right.

I made a few sharp kicks, landing the moves cleanly, before hopping into small flip on top of the wave. I whipped my hair out of my face as I rode the rest of the wave out, the water spraying my face as I leapt off the wave.

"And the first wave of the meet is a solid 8 for Lindsey Fisher!"

I heard cheers erupt throughout the crowd as I climbed back on my board, the waves rocking me slightly. My heart was hammering in my chest, the surf pounding in my head, through my veins, rushing like ice through me. I was completely relaxed yet astoundingly tense, ready for the next wave, anxiously waiting for another ride to ease my heart's need for a thrill.