Not Your Average Love Story

The Sorta Meeting

Once we got to talking, it was like the most easiest thing to do. He was so carefree and... nice! He made telling him anything feel easy. I guess he felt the same about me, cause some of the things he told me should not be shared with the public...

It's been a week since I broke up with my ex boyfriend, Tanner, on my 15th birthday and I haven't been happier. I'm at the beach with my family, surfing amazing waves with my brothers, and there's no one out that we need to share them with. Tanner on the other hand is absolutely depressed, and I feel guilty about it every time I see him in the hallways at school. I can't help the way I feel though, I wish i could, but I can't.
"Go, go, go!" My brother shouts at me, and then I see this beautiful wave forming. I turn my board around and start paddling hard: left, right, left, right. My hands are digging deep into the water, pushing it back to give myself more momentum. I finally feel the board start gliding on its own, and that's when I jump up and lean to the right to position my board in the open end of the bowl I'm about to catch. I feel the sensation of gliding on the water, and for the moment I'm content. I'm riding a beautiful wave, on a beautiful day, and everything wrong in my life becomes non existent until it's just me, my board, and this wave. Then the bowl closes up behind me and I use the momentum my board still has from that wave and glide over top of it, and plop right back down onto my board to paddle back out for more. It's like a drug, once you get a little taste of it you keep going back for more. It's impossible to explain how it feels to be gliding on that wave, it's a feeling that every surfer gets, but can never find the right words to explain it.... because there is no right words to explain it. It's unexplainable. All I can think about after each wave I catch is more, more, more! I want more of that! It's exhilarating and completely calming at the same time. We pop our trick just for show, but what we love most is coming to our favorite beach, on a great day, when there's no one else out, and just letting ourselves go with the water. We don't come out till our stomachs are raw from rubbing on the boards; till the boys have ball rashes and the girls have bikini rashes; till our bodies are completely burnt and we can hardly move; till the sun has gone down and it's gotten too dangerous to surf without the light. Any chance we get, we're in that water laughing, yelling, fighting for the wave of the day, and just sitting on our boards, treading water in complete silence and watching the horizon. Everything about the ocean, I love. I love it's danger and it's serene-ness. I love how it supports you and just flows. I love how it can be completely calm and content, and then the next second, completely crazy and raging. It's my happy place.
"Hou! Great one!" A group of random boys are gathered on the rocky shores of our Kawā Bay (kuh-wah) watching us with their boards in hand. I recognize them from my school, but I have never socialized with them. I paddle closer to my brother who's only a year younger than me and ask him, "Nalu, do you know any of them?" He shakes his head no and says,
"Why would I? I don't go your school." Which is true I guess, but he knows more people than I do in this town.
"Just asking, don't need to be like that." I roll my eyes at him, and then turn my attention back to the beach, only to see the boys jumping in the water and paddling out to where we are.
"Oh shit! I know these boys!" Our other brother, Dylan, calls out. He's two years younger than us, but he's basically friends with every single person in our district. The boys all paddle up to each other and do their guy shake, leaving me alone.
I catch a few more waves, then decide I'm over it since I've just been rubbing my stomach on my board making it raw, only to catch a wave after waiting almost 20 minutes for everyone else to catch one. It's called a lineup, when there's multiple surfers, surfing at the same location they get into a lineup so there's no issues with people stealing peoples waves and so everyone has a fair amount of waves to catch. But it's not our fault if we see a nice wave and decide to drop in on you, cutting your momentum off, and stealing your wave. It's just business.
After I paddle into shore, one of the least experienced surfer that was out there follows me in and props his board up in the rocks like my own, so it doesn't get dinged. We stand there for about a second before I decide to go swimming because I'm not done being in the water yet. The boy also goes swimming a little ways down the bay from me. He's dark, must be my age, nice body, but zero surfing skills. Unfortunate. I've never seen him around school, and my brothers didn't seem to know him, so he's probably not from around here. I watch him turn his back on each wave that comes and lets it knock him down, it's quite funny from my point of view. After diving under each wave that came, I decide to just let the waves hit me, but not knock me down. One of the waves knocks the boy completely into me, which resulted in me falling down and getting a mouthful of salt water.. ew..
"Dude I'm so sorry! I didn't mean to knock into you!" The boy says to me after regaining our balance.
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So basically I probably won't leave any authors notes after a chapter unless I need to tell you guys something, so don't be alarmed if there's nothing there. I just wanted to say that, I don't care of you guys star my book or whatever, as long as you read it and enjoy it, I'm good with that. I only want people to take joy out of reading my pieces and not feel obligated to vote on it.
Thanks.