iii. surfing

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CHAPTER THREE: surfing

I put my surfboard on the sand, before turning back towards him

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I put my surfboard on the sand, before turning back towards him. He was looking anxiously out at the waves crashing against each other in the distance. I almost felt bad for him since he didn't know how to surf and the ocean didn't look to welcoming to newcomers but I wasn't going to let him leave Hawaii without surfing once.

"Are you sure this is necessary? I think we should go back to your place" Mattia tried to persuade me but i wasn't budging, as i kept smiling at him and nodding my head to the board. He sighed, placing his towel down next to mine before walking over to me. "Now what?"

"Lay down on your stomach so you can practice getting up" He nodded, before following my orders. He looked up at me, not sure on how to even get up on a surfboard. This time i sighed, before laying down on the sand, demonstrating how to before looking at him. He copies me and i wasn't surprised when it took about seven tries and we both couldn't stop laughing every time to ended up on his face.

Finally we were up to standing, "Once you've taken off, keep your knees bent, your arms loose and extended, your feet planted on the board, and your torso leaned forward to lower your center of gravity." He nodded his head, his tongue sticking out slightly while he concentrated, the sun hitting a certain angle of his face which brightened his dark eyes. I smiled at the sight of him before tearing my eyes away.

"Depending on which foot comes naturally in front, you'll be either a "regular foot" or "goofy foot." Regular foot means that your left foot is in front, while goofy foot means your right foot leads." He looked at me weirdly as I said goofy foot, he stood up straight losing his stance.

"Goofy foot? Really? You're so talking shit right now" I chuckled, shaking my head, moving closer towards him. Showing him how to stand, his right foot coming out naturally. I smirked.

"You have got a goofy foot my friend" He groaned, looking down at his feet, putting his left one out in front but he didn't look comfortable before I leaned down and grabbed his ankle, switching them. "It's not bad, most people have a goofy foot too"

"You don't"

I shrugged "Who cares if i don't, because you do and you should enjoy it." He smiled lightly at me, neither of us being able to look away before I heard a wave crash behind me, looking away "

"But anyway, back to surfing." I moved around him as I talked, not liking to just stay standing still in one spot "Most beginners have a habit to adopt a squatty stance when learning. Their feet are widely spread apart from bow to stern of their boards. This might feel comfortable, but it actually makes it harder to control. Balance is side-to-side, not front to back. You will notice that most surfers usually ride with their feet much closer together."

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⏰ Last updated: Jun 08, 2020 ⏰

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