"Life is like surfing a good wave. We have those moments where you feel as though you are on the top of the world and those where your life comes crashing down all around you."
Ainsley Matthews, ex-pro surfer, has been though a lot in the past. From...
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C H A P T E R E L E V E N sink or swim
shorey: waves that break on the shore.
The next morning I woke up with knots in my stomach. I knew today was going to be the day that I would attempt to face my fears but so far it seemed as though the fears were consuming me.
I could barely catch any sleep. I spent more time staring up at my ceiling as thoughts plagued my mind.
I was sitting out on my front steps waiting for Dawson as my mind drifted to Crystal once again.
"Isn't this just like a dream." Crystal exclaimed as we laid out on our surfboards in the water close to the shore. "How many people wish they could have the lives we did? Waking up every morning and catching waves, there's nothing i'd rather do. Especially with my best friend."
I looked at her with a huge smile plastered on my face. She was right, there was nothing better than this.
"I'm going to miss doing this everyday when we head off to college. We will have to cal each other everyday to keep this tradition alive."
My laughter filled the air as I turned to face her, in the process falling off my board and into the water.
"You know, you could always come join me at the Univeristy of Hawaii." I replied with a smile as I leaned against my board. "You still have a couple years to snatch up a scholarship to there."
"As much as I'd love that this isn't what I want to be doing all my life. You Ainsley can go somewhere with this, you have a gift. Me on the other hand, this is just a past time for me. I love doing it because I get to do it with you."
"What would I do without you? You're the best friend ever, I don't think I could live without you." I said as I threw myself back onto my board, my long hair sprawling out on the surface of it.
"Oh don't be silly yes you could. You would still have surfing and then you could always feel like i'm right there with you. Besides, you don't have to worry about that for a long time. You're stuck with me Ains"
All of the sudden there was a honk which came from my driveway snapping me out of my thoughts.
Dawson's white truck was crookedly parked in my driveway as I could make out his figure sitting in the drivers seat wearing a snap back and a pair of sunglasses.
I grabbed my bag that was sitting on the porch beside me and ensured that the front door was locked before making my way over to his truck.
