"Life is like surfing a good wave. We have those moments where you feel as though you are on the top of the world and those where your life comes crashing down all around you."
Ainsley Matthews, ex-pro surfer, has been though a lot in the past. From...
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C H A P T E R T W E N T Y - F I V E backstabber
kook: any surfer who endangers or impedes other surfers.
Three days.
The competition at Pierre's Point was now just three days away. Despite it being a smaller competition, the anxiety I was currently feeling made it seem like I was going to be competing in the Eddie Big Wave International.
Recently I had been waking up long before my alarm, today was one of those days once again. I couldn't sleep. The anxiety I was feeling was consuming my thoughts, disrupting my day to day life.
I found myself laying on my bed, staring up at the speckled ceiling like I did every morning in an attempt to calm my nerves for the day ahead.
It was peacefully quiet. The only sound being my ragged breathing and the deafening thoughts and doubts running rampant through my mind.
I rolled over onto my side and found myself face to face with a trophy I had won, the most important one of my young career.
"I am so going to kick your ass!" Crystal shouts at me as I adjust the purple lycra that I was given.
Laughter fills the air. "Oh you wish. I prepared more than you did".
She gasps and splashes water towards me. "Hey! That's because I was busy. But just because you prepared more than I, doesn't mean you'll win. It's based on luck".
Glancing around, I scouted out the other two competitors in our heat. One I recognized from previous competitions, but the other girl I had never seen before.
The horn sounds signalling the competition has begun as I grab my board, tuck it under my arm, and run out into the ocean.
I was the first one out, the other competitors close behind why Crystal right on my heels.
I kept paddling once I was in deep enough water and then began searching for the wave I was going to take my first ride on.
I wanted the first wave; to set the pace for the entire competition, hoping to throw my competitors off of their game.
Just then I spot a wave rising on the horizon, the right side being higher than the left and that is where I started paddling towards. Crystal spotted it as well and was sought after the same wave.
A paddle battle was ensuing.
However, I was a stronger paddler than her and beat her to the wave. Quickly standing up and taking control as the other competitors watched, giving me the priority to avoid an interference penalty.
I rode the wave, throwing out the best moves and skills I could manage hoping to score as close to a 10 as possible.
