Because nothing ells people had back in history was clock and music instruments and some random hand work knowledge, mostly agriculture.
So, you can literarily change compression in engine by :
De tuning it ore Tuning it.
Add metal particle like lead fuel, joe cell chrome, fuels that eat up engine parts rosting, electro plating, spark plug brake down aluminum oxide .
Put heavy gas like inert gas's to change engine volume increase compression co2 gas or similar like argon xenon etc. typical arc welder principle.
Physically decompress or compress more air in cylinder via all cyne of pump's.
Or simply physically change cylinder volume, please see 5 stroke engine design and possibly the exhaust system can act as giant piston because it has a solid cylindrical form (exhaust pipes) Opel did make first ballistic missiles and exhaust ports are perfect for steam turbine ore jet turbine effect design I will come to that subject later.
" Personal experience with my hybrid engine"
I got it by accident, honestly.
I am Opel mechanic but still, I might be wrong.
My personal car is Opel Ascona C made in 1985 it has 1.3l sohc engine 50kw 75 hp.
It is equipped with piezo element also called thermos time valve on carburetor who is pier burg 2e3 model I do have non-center tap Delco alternator and Delco 2brush starter motor with s/r terminal starter solenoid,I do have single hei e core type ignition coil and distributor has induction trigger with 4 pin gm ignition modules.
I will do and try to explain best I can what happened to my and how I ended up with hydro lock similar to lanz bulldog tractor effect, but my engine can copy the papp as well.
So to begin our problem-solving I will simply report problems a cured who I personally see.
Apparently I have failing back charging alternator and probably it's reverse polarity those old gm cars do have terrible wire harness and if no diode is present car won't shut off because if you look at old engines they did actually just dead short generators to make it going old ancient engines didn't had distributors or spark plug even I can fire my engine outside by just touching ground at cent rain oscillation engine will operate at its lowest speed so you varies current voltage frequency and polarity to advance and restart your engine.
In my case, supposedly this car was built all around the world, and they did we built for positive and negative ground cars ore positive linear voltage regulator inside your dashboard even my ignition module is polarity sensitive.
So back to it normal blinker relays were design for Europe and America market for lead tail lights etc., so they can change by replacing bulb resistance blinker relay oscillation speed and that relay suspiciously look similar like ignition igniter considering he's internals circuit, when you get back charge ore ac going to your baterry will experience more amps lower voltage or vice versa it will electro plate ore electrolysis it will have different effects I believe alternators can be brushless motors easily so can the starter motor by either generator or starter motor the old SG 1914 used twin flywheel and the SG generators used extra brushes that starter had dual purpose to generate and run engine, so apparently I experienced lot things mostly created plasma ignition or amplifier due to failed alternator voltage regulator and apparently my fuel did turn out to by experiencing mixtures and thermos dynamic changes water gets inside fuel tank mechanical fuel pump got leaky stuffed up fuel lines and fume led carburetor jets and ignition timing done all that on a stock stranded engin.
I believe I had failing head gasket fuel and other liquids simply bound together under high pressure even minerals are present from coolant electrolysis and defiantly bacteria is present I'm not sure, but mostly it creates only ethanol or methanol gas!
That would explain if I for example would use methanol alone I would need heaters, special high amp ignition system which I do have twin relay and hei ignition by accident, and I would require special high torque starter motor specifically for tank.
Well, apparently there are 2 ways how to change fuel.
Ethanol you add water lowering it fuel grade but you lose octane supposedly more and more it would probably work best with plasma ignition and use lighter flywheel and greater speed starter motor because that fuel type is multiplying, and you require lower compression ratio engine configuration.
Methanol is every thing opposite of ethanol.
It burns slower and its dividing is lowering in volume but it's stronger every time the batch has more energy so you actually use smaller jets in carburetor and is more effective fuel in high compression ration engines.
Whatever is happening other fuel gets simply used up and changes over time.
My theory what happened by my is that I had too much valve clearance between intake and exhaust valve so lot burned gases did get rev routed back to intake I do have problems with spark plugs who fail insulation again aluminum oxide .
So bear with my for a second please you see the fuel pump has cent rain pressure + the crank has massive pressure, the carburetor itself has accelerator pump on it plus a piezo vaporization +the engine it self-becomes a massive big piston compressor, and it seems my exhaust system acts as massive single cylinder similar that of size giant boats use ore dizel trains .
So basically my engine acts similar to hot bulb engine ore hit-and-miss engine but better.
So, I believe that waste spark system has effect if you actually reverse the polarity (±,-+,++,--) that polarity swap does not matter if you charge a coil from ground or the leads it still will fire thought relay oscillator or integrated ignition module.
So, probably thermos dynamics get involved bacteria is happy eating co2 gas and other fluids because I don't change my oil often.
Possibly is this as well (calcium+ chlorine+brake fluid =self ignition fuel based on time).
So, you see? I run multiple fuel types at once and all of them have their special effects.
If I would use for example + + firing I get dobel towing power but half my engine speed, if I use -- fairing I get dobel speed but half the original torque .
And that's what my engine originally does it dizel's after some time even without spark or arc's.
Basically waste spark does resemble mostly multi stroke firing on compression and exhaust creating 2 different engine types I'm not sure if it is 6stroker or dual runner engine configuration something between 4 and 2 strokes, perhaps .
Hard to tell the difference.
And my engine is not modified or car, it's stock stranded and still better performing as the Shell 376 MPG Opel.
And yes, they did lie about that mileage my car worked liters per hour like a tractor and mostly how much I could tell those bacteria done good job feeding my with fuel over time because I don't use my car often probably glycol ore synthesis tuck care in that crankcase bounding material I suppose.
I dono I assume in its hydro lock it did run around 500 rpm should most likely use heavy'r flywheel, so I end up with nice tractor stationary generator.
By the way, 250rpm electric generator can be used and drive separate electric motor on the rear differential similar to Owen magnetic car.
I can improve my car ore engine, but I don't have to.
I did see the results, even tought not in its best form .
But still, I beat the shell mileage at least by 4x on stock stranded engine.
If even only by accidents.
Any way, just like any hot bulb or hit-and-miss engine I have only problems starting my engine in winter time and cranking problems.
Ok, simply my engine turned out to work similar like slow running hot bulb engine even if I disconnect jets in carburetor engine still goes it's after all crank port feeding similar to 2-stroke engines.
But I suppose better version of that same engine would look like this:
