part 5 - redemption

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My heart was beating as I ran towards the freezing water but adrenaline warmed my body up immediately. I splashed against the current and saw Lily Tran in front eyeing the waves. If I beat her before, I can do it again. I especially want to get first place instead of Poppy usually getting it. Bodhi's offer for the sponsorship had me thinking it can be my big break. I'm not ugly in any way, but definitely not eye catching. That was Bodhi's job with her long legs and proportions.

My mind ran back to the present as Poppy took the first wave and made a sick bottom turn at the peak of the wave. I eyed Lily Tran with my best psych out look and proceeded to swim for the upcoming wave. Tran cut me off before I can take it. That was my plan. Bodhi also tried going for that wave but was cut off by Tran before she can go.

I watched her wipeout under the wave's force and an instant smile of gratification came onto my face. After that first fakeout I managed to take several waves in a row. Going to sleep early last night was the best decision of my life. On my last wave I wanted to put all my might into it before time was up.  On the top of the wave I pulled a stream of top and bottom curves that I learned from watching Marlon all these years. When the wave fell over, I was at the top of the world.

Once the timer was up, they haven't judged my last wave yet and my heart was beginning to beat harder again.

I saw Ari running to my direction. Again, my heart skipped a beat because maybe he can notice me finally. I was about to put my arms out but he ran past me to Bodhi where Marlon was running to her as well. "You were great out there!"

My hopes sank immediately and I walked past to the tent where I slumped into a chair next to Manu. "What are you doing, mate? They're about the announcement your last score."

I came back to the senses when I remembered what Manu had said to me last week about being a good sport. I went to Bodhi and the rest of the group with a big smile. "Poppy you were amazing! You're definitely going to get first pla-"

"Mina Collins lands first place for the Girls-Under 16 division with a score of 9.3 on her last wave!"

In one minute I must have had a world record for as many emotions a human can have. Because right now I'm feeling shocked. I couldn't believe my ears when they said I got first place. I finally have a real, real chance at making it to the state team after we finish up semis at Jackson Bay. When I turned back to the group they all came and hugged me. Marlon, Poppy, Summer, Ari and Bodhi. I tumbled backwards into the sand where Ari landed directly on top of me. I don't know whether it was the utter shock I was feeling or the mood but I didn't push him off me immediately.

In the split second he was on top of me I thought I saw his face change before he rolled off onto the pillowy sand and sat up. The mood between us changed as soon as he mentioned Bodhi again. "'Mina and Bodhi got advanced to the Jackson Bay semis!"

"What about Poppy?! She got second!" Bodhi cheered.

I knew things were weird at the moment in this group dynamic, but by now I definitely was reassured of my place in the Boardriders Club.

━━༺❀༻━━

I was in the weight room at the lesson center doing lunges on the mat. Manu had given everyone new exercise regimes tailored to their needs after we reviewed footage of our surfing from the previous comp. My main focus is trying to train my flexibility since Manu said I did a great range of turns but my bottom turn was weak due to a stiff foot. He wasn't wrong because as soon as I came home from the semis, my right foot began cramping real bad. I had to beg Poppy and Prawnie to take turns kneading Satan out of my foot for two hours.

My mind kept going back to that swift moment Ari was on top of me. I'm not sure if he came up to me that time just because everyone else was happy or because maybe, maybe he actually singles me out of the stupid term "surfing buddy" for once. When his face changed for that one moment my whole body got chills. Even when I think about it, what do I like about Ari? He wasn't technically the smartest, but definitely the dorkiest. Whenever he smiled it was like the whole room lit up and he had great hair.

A noise interrupted my thoughts and I saw Ari in the doorway. This was the last time I was going to let him catch me in some emotionally vulnerable state. "Hey, Mina. What are you up to?"

"Nothing." I said blankly as I grabbed a towel to wipe my face off. I hope my mascara didn't smear or else it didn't advertise as waterproof correctly. He kept looking at me and I realized I was just in a sports bra and a pair of five year old volleyball shorts reserved for going to bed or quick runs to the mart at 11 pm. I needed to leave and not talk to him while I got my head in functioning order. Before I can reach the door with my things, he grabbed my arm.

"Where are you going?" He kept looking at me weirdly and I pulled my sweaty hand away. "Are you mad at me? You've been weird since the last comp. I just came in to see where Poppy is because she mixed up my towels with hers."

I nodded and pointed to Poppy leading the beginner surfing classes. I just hoped he'd walk off and ignore me so my break before the intermediate classes came and I'd be swamped with babysitting duties this afternoon. "Why aren't you going?"

"You still haven't said anything about being mad at me. Things have been weird since I told you about liking..." Ari stopped his sentence because Manu had walked in with sand on his papers and wet clothes. Ari grabbed my hand and pulled me away before Manu can look up and begin lecturing us about slacking off on training. He's been on edge for the upcoming Jackson Bay comp.

I couldn't hold my inner monologue in anymore and burst at him. "Look, Ari! You're the most oblivious person ever. I never had the intention of knowing about you being in love with Bodhi who has a whole boyfriend or the fact I can't handle anymore headspace because I always have an identity crisis in this whole Boardriders group! Things are finally being okay after Poppy basically singled me out as some shoo-in into her family. Also, you basically left me hanging that day for the love of your life when I won first place. Please, just go." I pulled his hand away and immediately regretted going off at him. "I'm sorry. I know you have your own things going on, but I can't always have my thoughts be all about you. It  gets tiring."

"You think about me?" Ari asked.

"Yes, I think about you. It's hard not to since I've missed you so much when you were gone." I spat.

"I'm sorry."

"For what?"

"For not being around." It was impossible not to forgive him. I just hugged him tightly while processing all my pent up thoughts.

"We're all sorry for not being around." I said. I tried not to be emotional baggage around this boy, but it's hard to contain anxiety about state team, adjusting to a new family, and addressing my feelings for Ari. I felt him hug me back but I let go before thanking him and leaving.

I guess screaming at my crush did the trick. It felt like a thousand bricks came off my shoulders from one meltdown.

- surfing feelings ⛅️  | ari gibson | a surviving summer fanfictionWhere stories live. Discover now