Chapter 1. Sudden Change

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It all started on a bright sunny morning when I rolled over in bed and saw a sliver of sunshine coming through my cracked window. I laid there in the warmth of my sheets as I stretched. Today was the third day of summer and I could already hear the crash of the waves against the shore calling my name. Today I was going to spend my time in the warm waters of Florida surfing it up. I learned a little over a year ago Christmas break of my sophomore year when I came and spent the break at my grandparents beachfront house.


After I stretched to where I felt fully awake I crawled out of bed and grabbed my teal bikini on my dresser. I dressed in the bathroom attached to my room. Staring into the mirror I could see my fairly tanned skin was getting tanner by the day and my long blonde hair flowed down my back about four inches above my hip bones. Suddenly I heard my grandma call my name from the kitchen downstairs. I quickly threw my pajamas into my room and shot down the stairs to the living room. The ocean view was absolutely fantastic.


"Your pancakes are done sweetie, looks like you're going to be on the water all day." She said with a smile across her face.


"Yup, I'm pretty excited I waited a whole year for this and I'm aching to get back at it especially since I have the whole summer to surf." I said as I poured myself a glass of milk.


"Well I'm glad your back to enjoy the sunshine and the waves, we sure missed you."


"I missed you guys too." I said as I finished my last bite of my pancake.


"Gotta go catch those waves!" I called as I ran to grab my surfboard.


My grandparents had gotten me a rip curl surfboard for my Christmas present last year. I immediately fell in love with it, surfing every minute I could just to break her in. After I found my surfboard safely packed away in some covers I raced down the shoreline to find the perfect place to get in. The sun had rose about an hour ago setting high enough in the sky to warm the waters to the perfect temperature. I found the perfect spot in the water and set my board in; I lay down on my board and swiftly paddled out farther. My arms didn't tire fast at all considering all the exercising I had done before this. Water slapped against the edges of my board splashing up on my face. I smiled enjoying the warmth of the waves beneath me and my board. I could feel the adrenaline rushing through my body, soaking in every moment. Suddenly I saw the perfect wave coming towards me; quickly I set up and paddled faster to catch it just right. I dipped down underneath the first smaller wave and turned catching the bigger one. Once my board made an exit above the surface I stood up softly on my feet keeping my balance. My first wave of the summer, the breeze against my bare tan skin and the sun shining down made every minute breathless. Everything was so perfect. The wave began to die down so I dived into the rushing water below me feeling the blue waves swallow me up. I resurfaced and smiled with a wide grin as I got back up on my board. This is what I lived for now days, the thrill of surfing. Soccer used to run thick through my veins but now surfing has set its marks on my heart.


The day went on as I surfed and surfed only taking breaks for water and lunch. Just as I finished off my last wave of the day I heard my grandma call me in for dinner. Hungrily I got out of the water carrying my surfboard up the beach onto the sand. Quickly I showered off in the outside shower and wrapped a towel around my body and stepped into the air conditioning of the house. I tiptoed over to the table and sat down. I was starving from the long day I had on the surf. My grandma and mom came in carrying big plates of roast beef, potatoes, gravy, beans, and the best part was the pie my dad pulled out of the oven. I reached for the pie but quickly got my hand slapped away.

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