10. Wine, Pôchouse and Ideas

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L'Amiral is a bustling brasserie and bistro beside the town square in Saint-Jean-de-Losne

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L'Amiral is a bustling brasserie and bistro beside the town square in Saint-Jean-de-Losne. It sits in a dank little north-facing corner under the perpetual shadows of its own façade and those of the church across the narrow lane, and looks out onto the monument at the square's centre. The bar was crowded and smoky when we arrived, so I pointed to an empty table in the back corner of the bistro, and Jean-Luc led the way.

"This year we have big celebrations here marking three hundred and fifty years since la Belle Défense, "the town's brave defence in 1636 by a handful of men against the army of the Austrian Empire. The monument in the square marks the event, and there is a huge festival every fifty years ..." He paused and glanced at his watch. "It's past noon; we could eat."

"I could easily do with a bite; what's good here?"

"He specialises in regional cuisine, with all the standard dishes for the tourists – coq-au-vin, boeuf bourguignon and the like, and he has a wonderful pôchouse most Fridays. Do you like pôchouse?"

"I love it. Let's see if he has it today. How's his wine list?"

"Here it comes now," Jean-Luc said, nodding toward the aproned man making his way across the floor with a broad smile.

"Ça va, Jean-Luc?" greeted the jovial man as he wiped his hands on his soiled apron and extended his right to shake. "It is a long time. The winter is over now and your season begins, yes?"

"Oui, Giles. This is David, looking to buy a barge. I warn you, though, he is a wine négociant from America, so be careful with your carte," Jean-Luc joked. "You have pôchouse today?"

"Bien sûr, and a delicious one. The fish selection in the Dijon market was superb this morning. I got tanche and anguille – big flavours that beg for a big wine." He placed la carte des vins on the table, clearly toward my side, then quickly looking around at the busy room, he said, "I'll be back shortly."

After half a minute of scanning, I said, "A short list, but carefully assembled. It looks as though he knows wine himself, or knows someone who does. Here, André Nudant Ladoix Premier Cru 1982. This comes from a vineyard at the top of the slope bordering the Grand Cru Corton. It drinks like a Corton-Charlemagne at only half the price. Or here, Nudant Corton-Charlemagne 1978  from vineyards farther along the hill's south-facing side. A great wine that Giles lists at a very fair price. I need a big wine to help free up my thinking."

Glancing over at the price, Jean-Luc said, "That looks way too expensive for me. My business is still small, and it has been a slow winter."

"No, no, no – this is on me. I represent Domaine Nudant and have for many years. This is a marketing expense for me."

"We need to do more business together." He chuckled. "I like this."

I grinned, closed the wine list and caught Giles' eye. "You are quick with the list," he said as he arrived. "You have found something?"

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