A Road Less Travelled

Part 3

photo: around Hughenden on my trip

On the road

I left early morning on Boxing Day (2000) from the Darwin area and made great headway towards the Three Way Roadhouse, between Catherine and Alice Springs, which is a 1000 km drive. I thought it was a good distance and planned to have my first overnight stay and break to the drive. Reflecting back on my journey so far, I was wondering what all the fuss over floods was about. It was a fantastic drive, I loved the gradual change of scenery... from a tropical lush green to a drier and desert looking area, both equally - in their own way - of a magnificent rugged beauty. I have also never seen so few cars on a main highway – ever! And simply loved the wide-open space this country has to offer. The sun had been burning down with all its might all day long, and there was barely a cloud in the sky. The endless road in front of me disappeared in a haze of glimmering heat rising from the bitumen, the only sound I heard; the reassuring steady humming of my WB V8 Ute. I so loved that car! A vintage model with faded yellow paint and shabby brown seats – but I only saw her beauty. We were about to have many great times together! I decided to get a Ute so I would be able to sleep on the tray under the open sky again and admire the stars from the comfort of a cozy swag. I also had to watch my spending – hence the 'vintage' model. Larry had serviced and overhauled the engine before the big trip and I had an unexplainable faith in this car.

I arrived safely at Three Way Roadhouse just as it was getting dark, had a refreshing shower, a meal and rang my son to let everyone know where I was and that I am ok. As planned, I rolled out my swag in the tray of my car and settled in for another awestruck night under this amazing southern sky. I woke up on first daylight and was off just a short time after. The turn-off into Barkly Highway was very close from the roadhouse and I couldn't wait to head eastward towards Queensland, another 1400 km to Charters Towers. I was confident that if all goes well I could be there by tomorrow sometimes, with one more break somewhere tonight.

But it didn't quite turn out that way...

The turn-off was blocked! Big black and yellow striped signs across the whole road formed a barrier, and informed travelers of floodwaters on the road. The only road to Queensland was impassable and there was no town anywhere in the vicinity to spend some time sightseeing... What should I do now?
I didn't want to stay at a roadhouse for days - that was decided quickly. But what were my other options?
Well, I decided to see how far I can get, and to simply drive around the roadblock. I had a swag, mosquito net, camp oven, food and water for at least a week, and thanks to the advice of my Aussie hosts, even a whole carton of beer. You always have to turn up places with a carton of beer apparently... What could possibly go wrong.
So I got back into my car, started up the engine again and bravely drove around the barriers. My heart was pounding in my chest; I was nervous, even a bit scared, but also very excited and I felt so alive! I have never been a reckless or irresponsible person, and, except for an occasional parking ticket, never broken the law – until now.
The plan was quite simple. I would drive until I hit the flooded area, set up camp there and wait for the water to recede. Only after a few years of living in this country, did it hit me just how dangerous that was! For example: it could have rained more and washed me away in my sleep. And it does not even need to rain where you are, for this to happen... the floodwaters can come from rain much further away. Or I could have gotten bitten by a snake when picking up firewood or using the bushes for a toilet... then have no one there to get help or take me to a hospital. Not to mention, a young woman traveling alone... what if someone with not so decent motives would have 'found' me? (I am certainly glad I had not seen Wolfs Creek at that time). Luckily, none of these things happened, but it didn't exactly go well either...!
I made it to Barkly Homestead Roadhouse with no dramas, got fuel, breakfast, then headed out again. I still couldn't see what the fuss was about... In hindsight, I believe that the people there thought I must be staying on one of the nearby cattle stations, since no one tried to stop me.
To drive through such empty, wide-open spaces, on a blocked off road, was a very special feeling – it was magical. One thing that had started to bother me a lot, back in Switzerland, was, that no matter how far you ride (your bicycle) or walk into a forest or up onto a mountain, you can never find a place that is truly quiet, I never found a place away from people and civilization. There is still always a plane passing over, or a bell tower ringing in the distance, or other hikers and cyclists with the same idea disturbing the tranquility. I had been craving to find such a quiet place for a while now and was desperately looking for it with no success. Now I knew, that the search was over... I realized that I had finally found a place devoid of all man made sounds! There, in the outback of Australia, in the middle of nowhere, I had finally found such a place! I pulled over and sat down in the middle of the road and listened to the perfect silence.
Time didn't exist anymore; I felt an inner peace like nothing I have ever felt before. I felt completely and utterly 'as one' with nature, reconnected with the earth's life force and energy.
And then I heard it – the sound of silence! It was subtle at first but grew into a crescendo, a symphony of sounds that we can't usually hear anymore ...it was the most beautiful thing I ever listened to. We think it is absolutely quiet, when in fact, we are still surrounded by so many sounds, which I mostly couldn't identify, but firmly believe that I heard forms of different energies or even magnetic fields. Among it, I could hear grass gently brushing against each other in the soft breeze, the glimmering of heat rising from the bitumen and the delicate wings of butterflies dancing around me. All senses were heightened to an extent where everything you hear, feel, and smell completely absorbs you, in a wonderful way ... where you get nearly drunk from taking it all in, but without any negative side effects. I can only assume that this must be a feeling that monks try to achieve, and I felt incredibly privileged to have experienced this utter bliss.

Do not dwell in the past. Do not dream of the future.
Concentrate the mind on the present moment.(Buddha)

This experience has followed me throughout my life ever since, and still now, from time to time I revisit that feeling; recalling it from my most treasured memories – like enjoying an exquisitely good bottle of wine brought up from the hidden treasures of a wine cellar.
But for now, back to the story; I eventually kept driving, still feeling exhilarated and overwhelmingly peaceful and happy for another couple of hours ... until I was stopped by a stretch of water that was covering the road in front of me. The flooded part was only about 20 to 30 meters wide with no drift or current. I had been driving on a road surrounded by a lake of water for some time now... a small strip of road to drive on was the only thing above the water level. It was quite a surreal sight.

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