Over and Over

Chapter Four

Four

That night I lay in bed with an aching tummy from too much to eat, a sore mouth from too much smiling and sore legs from too much dancing.  But I didn’t care at all.  It was late and I was tired, sleep came easily.  And so did the dream. 

I swimming in the surf at Nobby’s Beach.  I was between the flags like I always was feeling the waves lift my tired old body with each swell that past.  Then a bigger wave came and I rode into the shore, showing off the body surfing skills honed over a lifetime.  My wrinkly right arm was out in front of me guiding me safely through the ride.  I could clearly see the dragon ring on my right hand as it dipped in and out of the water.  Then I was in shallow water, the sand running down my body.  Filling the front of my floral one piece with sand and foam.  But I didn’t care.  I tried to stand but my arthritic hip gave out on me and I splashed back into the water, wallowing awkwardly like a stranded whale.

“Here love let me help you up.” 

A man was standing there with his hand outstretched, the surf washing around his feet.  I accepted his hand and hauled myself unceremoniously to my feet, wincing in pain as my aging muscles fought to keep me upright.

“You ok?” said the man. 

I smiled and nodded.

“Just one more wave.” I said looking out to sea.

“You sure?”  There was concern written all over his face.

“I’ll be ok, I’m just awkward in the shallows.”

“Ok,” he said.  “I’ll tell the lifeguard to look out for you.”

I nodded my thanks and hobbled back out to sea.  The first few waves caught me in the shallows and I thought that I might go over again.  But I was able to brace myself enough and keep on plodding towards deeper water.  Soon I was there.  I felt so graceful out here.  The water lifted me, taking my weight from my aching muscles.  It was almost like flying.  Then the wave came.  It must have been a freak as I’d never seen one that big in all my time surfing Nobby's Beach.  But on it came.  A towering green mountain of raw power thundering down on me, foaming at the top.

I tried to swim forward but the suction of the wave had me.  Could I ride it?  Or should I duck under it?  I opted for the safe option and under I went, waiting for this great green monster to pass me safely by.  But the monster had other ideas.  The wave was too big, too strong.  As it passed over me it pulled my feet from the sand turning me upside down then tossing me like a rag doll.  I didn’t know which way was up.  All around me was water, nothing but water.  Then my back hit the sand.  The force drove the air from my lungs and water rushed in.  My lungs filled with churning seawater and I just lay there on my back on the sand.  I could see the surface of the water high up above me.  The surface with it’s sweet, sweet air. 

But the wave held me down.  I tried to fight, to kick off the bottom and strike for the surface but the wave wasn’t over.  More water mounded on top of me and suddenly I knew it was over.  The fight left my arms and my hands found the sand.  I scooped a fistful of sand and marvelled at the way it ran through my fingers as the last of my life trickled away.

I sat bolt upright in bed and gasped for air.  It came easily and in great gulps.  My lungs were on fire.  But they weren’t full of water.  They were full of air.  I got out of bed and went to the bathroom sink to get myself a drink of water.  I drank greedily then looked at my self in the mirror.  I expected to see tired old eyes look back at me but instead saw my own.  For that at least I was grateful.