Surf in my Heart

Chapter 1

Chapter 1

Just imagine, turquoise rolling waves, cotton ball clouds, and that golden state of mind. Well that's my life... except my 'life' is not that way. I guess we all are going to experience those teenage years, but we just have to make the most of it. But for now let's just start from beginning, age 13.

As I walk down the beach with my best friend Jaylin, the wind blows the sea salt spray off the ocean into my golden hair, and I can smell that fishy but appealing scent. In one hand we hold our surf boards, and in the other a beach bag containing, water, a sandwich and a towel, oh and you can't forget sun tan lotion!

"Hey Lelani, how far up the beach are we gonna go?" asked Jaylin. "My arm is getting tired!" She whined.

I replied, "Not much further, I'm just... just looking for that perfect wave, and that perfect break."

"You and your poetic words seriously confuse me," said Jaylin.

When we found the perfect spot, we zipped our wetsuits on, and jumped in the water. For me, the cold chill that you get when you first throw yourself in the ocean is indescribable. It's exhilarating and also calming at the same time. We paddle out till we reach a good spot. Once I see and oncoming wave, I start to paddle till my arms can't take no more, and I feel the wave pick me up! I do a bottom turn, then a little aerial while the crowd (Jaylin) cheers me on.

After the surf session, we walk to the nearby taco shack that's on the pier. Carne Asada tacos are my favorite. Tired from surfing, we literally inhale our tacos.

Once I get home, I wash out my wetsuit and take a shower.

Tonight is the big night surfing party on Coco Beach which has the best waves, and me and Jaylin get to go. Although we never asked our parents, we were still pumped to go! Once I got out of the shower, I put my hair up into a braid so it would be wavy once I took it out. I looked into the mirror to see big hazel eyes, light little freckles across my nose, and super tan skin. I always wonder if I look presentable to other people, but I just don't know. I put on a patterned swim suit, and throw a flowy sundress over it, and take a deep breath.

CLANK! I look outside to see Jaylin throwing little rocks at my window. I move aside my light blue curtains and quietly open up my window. Since my room is on the second story of our house, I have to climb down the large mango tree that grows by my room. Once I reach the ground, I see a van vibrating with music and filled with a bunch of laughing teens.

"Let's go!" Exclaimed Jaylin.

"Coming!" I replied. I ran to the car and leaped in. All along the way to Coco Beach we listened to music and danced.

When we got to the beach, all I could see were sparklers, lights, glow in the dark necklace and bracelets, people dancing, eating pizza and drinking soda. music pumped through my ears and I could feel the excitement overtake my body. Jaylin and I started dancing. Beads of sweat ran down my forehead and I had never felt more alive. After dancing Jaylin and I grabbed our boards and ran into the water to cool off. Once we paddled out, I felt the cold night air around us. Everyone in the water had glow stick necklaces and were laughing.

Suddenly I felt a bump under my board. I began to panic thinking that it was a shark. SPLASH!! Me and Jaylin went overboard. Then our good friend Caleb popped up out of the water. He began laughing so hard he choked on the water.

"Haha! I totally got you!" laughed Caleb.

"You little butt!" said Jaylin and I as we splashed him with water.

Caleb had light brown hair, brown eyes, and tan skin. I had always liked Caleb.

We danced all night eating pizza and soda, laughing our hearts out! How had I never been to one of these?