Soul Surfer (based on a true story)

The Calm Before The Attack

The sun wasn't even up yet. I got out of the car to take a look but it wasn't too dark to see the water. I couldn't hear much either. If the surf is really big, you can actually hear it crashing on the reef from a long way away. "It doesn't seem like much is happening," I told my mom.

Pretty soon the sky east of us began to lighten, and I could see that the surf wasn't anything like it had been the day before. The small waves dumped right onto a sharp coral reef instead of barreling past it. I was itching to get on my board, but the water was just not going to cooperate.

If you surf a lot, you get used to this kind of thing. This island has some of the best waves in the world but my friends and I still get skunked sometimes. There is nothing you can do about it; just go home and do something else.

"I guess we should head back," mom sighed. She was equally disappointed. "Maybe the surf will come up tomorrow." I knew that if I didn't surf I would be home do I social studies, English, or math. Even though I'm working to be a pro surfer and get to be homeschooled in order to help with those goals, my parents pile on the homework.

As we were driving away, I gave it one last shot: "let's just check out tunnels beach," I suggested. Tunnels is a short walk to pauaeaka. Its called tunnels because of all the sand filled alleys that run through the shallow part of the reef. For tourists its a popular place to snorkel. Surfers like it because way out on the edge of the reef is a lightening fast wave that is good for both summer and winter.

"Sure, we can go take a look," mom replied. She did a wild u turn under the trees and pulled into the last space in the parking lot. While she waited, I walked down the little sand path and watched the waves for awhile. Still nothing much. And I didn't really want to paddle out by myself. So I figured I was doomed to schoolwork and trudged back to the Blue Crush. Suddenly a black pick up truck turned into the parking lot. It was Alana Blanchard, my best friend, her 16 year old brother, Byron, and her dad, Holt. They, like me, were on a mission to find something to surf in.

"Okay," I thought, maybe this wouldn't be a total washout after all. Even though the wave conditions were crummy, everything else was working; it was sunny, the water was warm, and my friends were here to hang with.

"Can I stay, mom?" I asked. "We think we'll paddle out for some small waves." Why not make the best out of it?

"Just make sure Holt brings you home" she called, and with that, I raced down the jungle trail with my friends to tunnels beach. I dug my toes into the warm sand and watched the rising sun illuminate the blue sea. Amazingly, the rain hadn't clouded the waters here. Even with all mud filled rivers pouring into other surf sports, it was as clear as glass.

I glanced over to see Holt putting wax on his board (to keep his feet from slipping). I put the surfboard leash on my left foot, and my Tim Carroll surfboard under my arm. I was Happy that I was going surfing; I was Happy to be with my friends. I felt the warm water slosh against my ankles, and just before I jumped in, I looked at my watch.

It was 6:40 on a beautiful Halloween morning.

# of words used 628

its strange, I always thought that by putting wax on the surfboard would have the surfers slip off there boards. But now knowing that its what keeps them on, is just strange to me. Cool. I did not know that.