14. home behind the wave

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C O L I N

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C O L I N

Grains of sand scraped against my cheek as I rubbed the tiredness from my face, the warmth of the just risen sun glowing against my naked chest. A light form of a headache echoed in the back of my temple but I ignored it best I could, gripping the smooth board and tucking it under my arm.

There was a calmness that radiated off the sand, one that consumed me like the waves that tugging at the sand as mother to her child. Taking in the smell of the ocean, the fluidity of the animal like water, the movement acting like she owned a heart.

I walked down the beach, beckoned by the call of her sweet voice that tasted salty on my tongue. The ankle cord tapped on my calf as a wave reached my toes, splashing up my leg as I walked without hesitation into a place I could somewhat call 'home.'

Placing the board into the water, I pushed off the sand and onto the heart of the wax covered board. The was a quietness to the ocean that settled my bones with an unexplainable calmness as my hands threaded through the water, finger wavering slightly at the strength of the current.

Paddling out and over the building waves, I took a deep breath through my nose of the fresh air that gave to the rebirth of my lungs, the saltiness of the wind sticking to my skin.

Looking out to the horizon and seeing the wave being built, I turned the board in a swift motion and automatically started paddling towards the shore again.

I could feel it. Feel the pull in the waves until it built up and the board picked up speed. Abandoning the water, I pushed up on the board and steadily drove the board along the wave that folded over making a dome like roof over my head.

My heart sped up. I had never gone in a tunnel before but as the morning sunset shone through the tunnel lighting up the water to a light shade of green, I couldn't help but trail my fingers along the inside of the wave.

I scoffed a laugh of happiness as the world went silent, the sensation of pure shock on how beautiful this moment in time was echoed by the grin on my face.

The board trailed out of the tunnel and my eyes closed shut as I let myself fall backwards and into the warmth of the water, a calmness swallowed within the mouth of the ocean.

Between the hour I had been surfing, I had revived three miscalled, four messages and someone had actually tried to FaceTime me.

Dropping my board on the sand and gripping my towel to dry off my dripping hands before I gripped my phone that unlocked a small sense of panic that began to bubble.

Bringing my phone to my wet ear, drops of my water falling off my hair sliding down my face and wetting my phone slightly, I listened.

"Colin, you fuckwit." Soren's voice sounded pissed as he hissed into the phone, "The family is all going on a Sunday morning breakfast, remember? Well, Jay has a hard grip on my ear and we have to go. Where the fuckity fuck are you?"

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