As the American people got fatter, so did marmosets, vervet monkeys and mice. The problem may be bigger than any of us.
Years ago, after a plane trip spent reading Fyodor Dostoyevsky's Notes from the Underground and Weight Watchers magazine, Woody Allen melded the two experiences into a single essay. 'I am fat,' it began. 'I am disgustingly fat. I am the fattest human I know. I have nothing but excess poundage all over my body. My fingers are fat. My wrists are fat. My eyes are fat. (Can you imagine fat eyes?).' It was 1968, when most of the world's people were more or less 'height-weight proportional' and millions of the rest were starving. Weight Watchers was a new organisation for an exotic new problem. The notion that being fat could spur Russian-novel anguish was good for a laugh.
That, as we used to say during my Californian adolescence, was then. Now, 1968's joke has become a modern truism. For the first time in human history, overweight people outnumber the underfed, and obesity is widespread in wealthy and poor nations alike. The diseases that obesity makes more likely — diabetes, heart ailments, strokes, kidney failure — are rising fast across the world, and the World Health Organisation predicts that they will be the leading causes of death in all countries, even the poorest, within a couple of years. What's more, the long-term illnesses of the overweight are far more expensive to treat than the infections and accidents for which modern health systems were designed. Obesity threatens individuals with long twilight years of sickness, and health-care systems with bankruptcy.
And so the authorities tell us, ever more loudly, that we are fat — disgustingly, world-threateningly fat. We must take ourselves in hand and address our weakness. After all, it's obvious who is to blame for this frightening global blanket of lipids: it's us, choosing over and over again, billions of times a day, to eat too much and exercise too little. What else could it be? If you're overweight, it must be because you are not saying no to sweets and fast food and fried potatoes. It's because you take elevators and cars and golf carts where your forebears nobly strained their thighs and calves. How could you do this to yourself, and to society?
Moral panic about the depravity of the heavy has seeped into many aspects of life, confusing even the erudite. Earlier this month, for example, the American evolutionary psychologist Geoffrey Miller expressed the zeitgeist in this tweet: 'Dear obese PhD applicants: if you don't have the willpower to stop eating carbs, you won't have the willpower to do a dissertation. #truth.' Businesses are moving to profit on the supposed weaknesses of their customers. Meanwhile, governments no longer presume that their citizens know what they are doing when they take up a menu or a shopping cart. Yesterday's fringe notions are becoming today's rules for living — such as New York City's recent attempt to ban large-size cups for sugary soft drinks, or Denmark's short-lived tax surcharge on foods that contain more than 2.3 per cent saturated fat, or Samoa Air's 2013 ticket policy, in which a passenger's fare is based on his weight because: 'You are the master of your air 'fair', you decide how much (or how little) your ticket will cost.'
Several governments now sponsor jauntily named pro-exercise programmes such as Let's Move! (US), Change4Life (UK) and actionsanté (Switzerland). Less chummy approaches are spreading, too. Since 2008, Japanese law requires companies to measure and report the waist circumference of all employees between the ages of 40 and 74 so that, among other things, anyone over the recommended girth can receive an email of admonition and advice.
Hand-in-glove with the authorities that promote self-scrutiny are the businesses that sell it, in the form of weight-loss foods, medicines, services, surgeries and new technologies. A Hong Kong company named Hapilabs offers an electronic fork that tracks how many bites you take per minute in order to prevent hasty eating: shovel food in too fast and it vibrates to alert you. A report by the consulting firm McKinsey & Co predicted in May 2012 that 'health and wellness' would soon become a trillion-dollar global industry. 'Obesity is expensive in terms of health-care costs,' it said before adding, with a consultantly chuckle, 'dealing with it is also a big, fat market.'
