Reading the Regency

Hair Styles and Head Dressing - part 2

Hair Decorations

"Flowers as an ornament were never introduced with a more distinguishing effect. For the hair, they are formed in wreaths, tiaras, and small bunches; and each are placed very low on the forehead. The hair is now scarcely every (sic) seen without an ornament of this kind, or the small half handkerchief, which consists of patent net, embroidered or spangled."
[La Belle Assemblee, pub. July 1807]

There were many different types of hair accessories, often worn as part of evening dress, and many are still used today. The following decorations were all mentioned in fashion descriptions of the time:

Aigrette - an ornament that was either designed to hold one or more feathers, or give the appearance of a feather or a plume. Some aigrettes were made of gold, diamonds, brilliants, (stones cut in the shape of a diamond) or covered in pearls.

Bandeau - this headband could be a full circle or a horseshoe shape. They could be made of gold, silver, silk, satin, velvet, net, gauze, muslin, lace, twisted crape or plaited hair. A bandeau could also form a string of beads made of gold, silver, pearl or other gemstones. One example from 1808 described the hair ornamented with "a bandeau of amethyst linked with gold".

Brooch - in 1806 "a brooch and star of brilliants" was described as part of the hair decorations for the Duchess of Roxborough's full dress. Sometimes described as a Clasp.

Caul - at this time a caul was a kind of hair net, often made of gold or silver net, which confined the hair at the back of the head. In 1808, something similar was called a Cariole, although I haven't found that word in any dictionary except as the name of a type of carriage or sleigh in France. The description makes it sound like a cross between a caul and a sling:

"The head-dress consists of a small tiara of gold, and the hair confined behind in a small cariole, or bag of gold netting, fastened on the upper part of the hair with bands to correspond."
[London Fashionable Full Dresses, The Lady's Magazine, pub. November 1808]

Combs - could be made of gold, silver, shell or ivory and decorated with diamonds, pearls, beads etc. Most were curved so they fit the shape of the head. Some combs were made of gilt with "paste" or fake gemstones. A Coronet Comb was formed into an arch shape and stood out above the hair like a tiara but fixed to the back of the head.

Feathers - ostrich was most common, but other types of feathers were occasionally used. They could either be left their natural colour, dyed or tipped, meaning dyed at the end. Feathers would have been worn with evening or court dress.

Fillet - these were mentioned only occasionally in fashion plates and seems to be somewhere between a bandeau and a tiara, worn along the hairline at the front. It's always described as "confining the hair".

Flowers - both real or artificial were worn in the hair. Silk flowers and leaves were commonly used.

Handkerchief - not always the small square we think of as a handkerchief today. Sometimes, what they referred to as a handkerchief we would today call a scarf, made of silk or muslin, but sometimes of lace or gold net. It was wider than a bandeau but not as wide as what they called a Scarf, which was sometimes worn as a half-turban. Occasionally, a large square handkerchief would be folded into a triangle and tied across the hair and under the chin, as some older people might wear a headscarf today.

Lappets - These were two strips of lace that hung from the headdress, fixed to the back of the head, ending either at or below shoulder level. They were sometimes called Court Lappets because they were mostly worn as part of formal court dress.