Reading the Regency

Fashion - An Introduction and Glossary - part 1

"But little change has taken place in the style of dress since our last communications. The season is too far advanced for variety, and it is as yet too early for the introduction of novelty. Much taste and fancy have, however, been displayed in the assortment of colours. We noticed on a lady of high rank, a dead leaf coloured sarsnet mantle, made short, with a large hood thrown open, tied with ribband; the cloak was lined with pink Persian, and ornamented at the edges with a satin vandyke ribband."
[General Observations and Reflections on Fashion and Dress, La Belle Assemblee, pub. March 1810]

Fashions changed considerably between 1790 and 1820, but not everyone indulged in the most up-to-date designs. Just like today, only the most fashionable and well-off people wore the Regency equivalent of "designer" labels. Others might have ordered new dresses from a seamstress in their nearest town, or bought the material and made their own. They could copy the examples printed in the many fashion magazines of the time, while using more durable materials or cheaper trimmings.

Trends waxed and waned in London during the Season. The latest must-have design or colour in April could be out of favour by June, and only the very wealthiest families--usually those who spent time at Court-- even tried to keep up with it. The modern equivalent these days would be a Kardashian, or Victoria Beckham; those who wanted to set the trends rather than following them. It wasn't just styles that gained or lost popularity. Different materials, trimmings and colours also changed as the season progressed, with the most fashionable ladies always wanting to be seen wearing the latest novelty.

"However, your coming just at this time is the greatest of comforts, and I am very glad to hear what you tell us, of long sleeves.''
[Chapter 25, Pride & Prejudice by Jane Austen]

Families who spent most of their time in the country did not always keep up with the very latest styles. However, that didn't mean they didn't want to know what was most fashionable at the time, only that they wouldn't be slaves to the newest fashions. This is why many letters between friends and family included information on the fashions seen in London. What was the height of fashion in the capital in March might not be seen in more distant areas of the country until months later, if at all.

Even among the peerage and gentry, not all families would or could invest in a whole new wardrobe every year. Many ladies wore clothes that they'd owned for a few years, perhaps freshened up with a different trimming or other decorations. Dresses that were in good condition could be taken apart and reshaped. Even when ordering new clothes, older people might choose the out-of-date styles they were comfortable in. It was said of the philosopher and scientist Henry Cavendish that when he died in 1810, he had not changed the fashion or cut of his clothes for the last sixty years of his life.

Glossary

The following sections will explain some of the words used to describe clothing worn at the time. These are words you may come across in later chapters on men's and women's clothes, hats and accessories.

The word Dress itself needs some explanation. Throughout these chapters, you'll see phrases like "Evening Dress" or "Riding Dress". These descriptions usually don't refer to one specific item of clothing, but to the whole outfit or ensemble. This is why men could wear their Evening Dress without appearing in women's clothing.

There were items sometimes called dresses, including the round dress and the train dress, that referred to their cut or style, but they would only be one layer of an outfit. A woman's "Evening Dress" could often include two layers of gown, or a gown with a visible under layer, or slip, plus a shawl or scarf, gloves, shoes and head dress.