Four o'clock time to surf. I rush home to get my surf board and bathing suit. I reach our blue beach house, I walk up the stairs and enter the house which is in complete darkness except the little dingy lights in the living room and kitchen, also the light blaring from the tv.
"Why the fuck you burst in here like you are in rush or some shit." My mom stepped in front of me holding a small glass filled to the rim of whiskey swooshing around in it and landing on the floor, and a cigarette in the other.
"I am in a rush I have to go." I tried to walk past her but she kicked me in the shin making me bend down to hold it.
"There is no rushing in the house." I look down to see my moms feet slipped in pink stilettos.
"Shit." I whispered seeing blood stain my jeans.
"May wanna clean that up better not get damn blood in my house." She stepped past me towards Kone.
"Bitch... ahh." I walk to he bathroom to put a band-aid on it. I sit down on the edge of the tub, lifted up my jeans to see the imprint of her heel in my skin. "Well thats gonna scar."
When I was done I walked to my room to get my surf board and bathing suit. I slipped on my pink bikini and walked out of my room tip toeing towards the door. To my luck she didn't notice.
You may wonder where the hell do I get the stuff I got with a mother like this, well my dad... my real dad who is a film producer, sends me a thousand dollars ever month since i was young some of it i save. My mom is not allowed to touch my money, or she will be arrested which she doesn't seem to care, since she takes four hundred of it every month for drugs and such.
The walk to the beach was quick. I run to the water and splash my way deeper in to the ocean with my surf board in my left hand, when i reached deep in the ocean I sat on my board and paddled out. I slowly touch the water watching the little ripples made by my fingers.
"Hey wow, you surf!" Who could possibly be out here with me I look around and find Dax to the left of me.
"Yah." I said flatly. I can see from the corner of my eye he starts paddling my way.
When he was near I noticed he was surfing too. "Nice board!" he said when he was right next to me. I looked at him and smiled, without conscious stealing a look at his six pack abs and very strong arms, he looked like a surfer boy alright.
"Thanks, I like yours too that is a really cool color." I looked at his blue board that slowly changes shade of blue as you look down the board.
"Thanks, got it from surf shop."
"As did I." I smiled and I meant it.
"Well how good are you?" he asked. I didn't realized I was going farther than usual.
"I'm pretty damn good." I said as I stopped paddling as did he.
"Me too." He winked at me. "Well wanna prove how good you are?"
"Shit why not." I laugh turned around paddling as fast as I can. I stood up and surfed, being inside a wave was alluring. I watched nothing but the water cyclone around me, I made it out right before it collapsed.
I hear Dax clapping in the distance behind me I drop my head back and laugh.
After about an hour of watching each other surfer we layer down on the sand looking up at the mildly dark sky.
"When did you start surfing?" I asked him.
"My tenth birthday."
"Wow exact Dax." I laughed.

YOU ARE READING
My life as a surfer
Fiksi RemajaBondi a girl who has been surfing since she could walk. She is surrounded by a horrible environment but doesn't stop her from her dream to surf. When her mom decides to tell her drug dealer that her daughter is the one with the drugs so she can rece...