Tsunami survival

The killer swell

The doctor stood at the end of my bed with a reasuring smile. Must be bad news. He's tapping his pen on his clipboard in an annoying manner... "C'mon doc, give me the results already!" I couldnt be patient any longer.

"Calm down Kayla, it is all perfectly fine. But I must inform you the swelling is going to stay for a few more days. Ice and rest your ankle. It was a terrible break." He rushes out.

"Ohh thank fuck for that, by the way you were going I thought I wouldve had to get a ankle brace. Thanks doc. Can I go now?"
:You got a body like an hour gla..:

" Sorry doc gotta go, boys are calling"

I limped down the corridor holding my phone to my chest till I got away from earshot.

"Yo whats up Brady?"

"Kayla hurry theres some killer swell coming in quick. Where are you?" Brady rushes

"Sick!! Im on my way I just finished at the docs. Do ya still got my board?" Stoked for a fresh deadly swell

"Ahh well hurry, and yeah ill unclip it from the roof rack ready for ya, hurry babe!" Ew no. Definately not your babe.

"Fucker" and with that I hung up.

Already on the street outside the docs, the beach is only a 5 minute walk from here. But a 2 minute jog.

I quicken my pace to a semi jog as best I could with a limp.

I know I should be resting my ankle but skrew that, especially when theres a sick swell.

I start taking my top of revealing my bikini. I take longer. Slower strides when the beach comes into veiw. With a quick scan of the empty car park I spot Brady leaning against his car frantically searching for me. My board leans beside him. I quicken up and i can feel the burn of my ankle getting worse and worse with every step. But not today. I havent been on the board in 6 weeks its my day to shred on the sick swell.

"About fucking time princess. Thought you would miss it." Brady jokes

"Wouldnt you love that dickhead" I retort

"Hahaha you are such a delight as always. Now throw your shirt in my car, get your board and hurry the fuck up lets get in there!" Its now that I turn my head to the left taking in the veiw of the beach

Palm trees surround the sand and crystal water. I look into the water and Im shocked to see the waves getting bigger and bigger.

"Dont gotta tell me twice dude" and with that brady is running towards the water with me in tow.

"Brady Ive never seen the water this epic in my whole life" Its true. Ive been in the water since I was a baby. My parents were pro surfers. And i was their prodigy.

The swell is epic.

"Me either Kayla, so lets make use of it. Use this and catch some shreadly waves" he tosses me a gopro. And im dead on point with what im gonna excersise on those waves. Lets make it memorable.

Once my feet enter the water i dive onto my surf board eager to paddle out into the swell. The waves are harsh so theres only one way to get past the break. Dives.

Its the 4th wave dive and it seems like im never going to be able to drop into a shread.

'Cmon this ankle isnt stopping you' I keep telling myself.

I rise from beneath the wave and surprisingly passed the last wave in the break. Fuck yes. I catch movement to my right and see Brady waving and pointing out to the ocean. Confused I shrug and look out to where he was pointing.

Holy mother of Jesus!!!

"Get back to shore!!! Hurry up!!" Brady screams taking me out of my trance.

This isnt a killer swell. Its a fucking Tsunami!!

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A/N

Sorry if it didnt make sense. Im new to this. And dont really know how to write just yet. I hope in the next chapter my story comes together.

Please leave any comments. Hate rate like anything.

Also any tips lotsa love

Mara