Across the Globe [COMPLETE]

Whakarewarewa

17TH OF JULY

Samantha

It’s almost four in the afternoon when we make it to the Whakarewarewa village, just in time for the last tour of the day. There’s a big white arch that greets us as we walk in, and on top of it a sign reads “Tehokowhitu-a-tu.” I wonder what it might mean. 

My interest in the Maori language is more than mere curiosity, there’s something about the way it sounds, the way things are pronounced, that reminds me a lot of Spanish, my mother’s native tongue, and my one too. It makes it feel familiar in a way, and yet so exotic. It sounds even better coming out of Tane’s lips...

The tour guide comes over to greet us by the entrance; she’s a lovely Maori lady, probably about 40 years old, with a really thick accent that I struggle to understand every now and then. 

“Welcome to my home,” she says. “My name is Kahurangi Anahera Tuhana Wairua, but you can just call me Ana.” With that, the whole group laughs, and we start to follow her around.

At some point, we get to a Marae, which she explains is a Maori meeting house used for religious and social purposes. It makes me think of a Church at first, but then I realise it’s got a feeling that’s so different to that of a Church. This feels more inviting, like it’s calling me in. 

The walls outside are white, with every other structure being painted red, which she explains is the colour of blood, lineage and the homeland. This is why the colour is widely used by Maoris, being really popular even in their everyday clothing. 

“Every part of the house symbolises a different part of the human body,” she explains. “The koruru, which is the figure at the top of the gables, represents the head.” 

I look up to the red rectangle that she’s pointing at, which has a face carved in it. There are two diagonal red bargeboards that lean to each side, which she tells us represent the open arms, welcoming us in. 

“The ridge beam represents the backbone,” she continues. “And the rafters signify the ribs. The windows to each side of the door, as you might imagine, represent the eyes. And there’s even a red column inside, to represent the heart.”

When she finishes explaining it all, I just stand there, marvelled by the amount of symbolisms one single building can contain. I feel like there’s so much information being shared around, that I’m just staring at everything wide eyed, trying to take in as much as I can.

We walk for about an hour, and we are shown some pools where they bathe with thermal water, we walk to a platform from where we can see part of the thermal wonderlands we were at earlier today, and then she tells us how a hangi is cooked. After all that, she guides us towards a stage, where she explains we will be enjoying a performance of traditional dances. 

Before Ana leaves, I decide to approach her.

“Thanks,” I say to her, “I just wanted to thank you for everything, it was an amazing tour and I learned a lot.”

“All good, mate,” she says as she smiles widely. “You are a Maori, aren’t ya? I was surprised to see you here.” 

My heart swells a bit at her words, and I have to swallow back tears.

“I am, only half though and I wasn’t raised here. My dad, who was Maori, passed away when I was really little, so I don’t actually know much about our culture, I grew up in South America,” I explain.

“That makes sense, I thought you didn’t sound kiwi at all, aye.”

With that, she walks away, and I head over to sit by Em’s side, who’s already waiting for me with a curious look on her face.