3 - wavy

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JJ sat next to me on the way to the beach.

i was painfully aware of the fact my thigh kept brushing against his.

both of us acknowledged it, but neither of us moved away from each other.

"so, Mia, where are you from? i can't recognise your accent?" Kie turned around in the passenger seat.

"i was born here, but i moved to England when i was ten. then since i was twelve, i've lived between Hawaii and Australia for my parents work—they own a surfing company. i always spent the summers here with Jonny, but i stopped coming a few years ago."

"if you still lived here, i think you'd be what's known as a Kook." JJ said.

"why'd you stop visiting?" Pope asked before i could ask what a Kook was.

"my parents... fell out with Uncle John."

"over what?" JJ frowned.

"it doesn't matter," John B finally spoke up.

"so why are you here, in the nicest way possible?" Kie put her head on one side.

"i made a mistake..." i bit my lip, "i fucked up big time."

everyone looked at me but i didn't continue with my story, and nobody pressed the matter.

"i forgot how beautiful it is here," i looked out of the window at the endless blue sea.

"we're pretty lucky to live here." Pope looked in the same direction as me.

Jonny indicated and pulled into a dusty car park, parking under the shade of some palm trees.

"you lot ready?" he turned to face us.

"i just need to put my rash vest on." i pulled it over my head and tugged the zipper.

"fuck sake," i hissed, feeling my hair catch in the teeth of the zip.

"let me help," JJ was behind me, gently tugging my hair free and pulling the zip up all the way.

i shivered as his cool fingers brushed my sun-warmed neck.

"Mia, come on." John B's voice was cold.

he was stood by the open door of the van with my board tucked under his arm.

i jumped out of the vehicle and took my board from my cousin, resisting the urge to hit him.

i ran past him and Kie and Pope to get to the ocean, wading in and laying on my board and paddling out.

i straddled it and bobbed about about thirty meters from shore, waiting for the others to reach me.

"so, who's the best surfer out of you lot?" i grinned.

"JJ, most definitely." Kie grinned, sitting cross legged on her own yellow board.

"JJ, then Kie, then John B then me." Pope said.

"i'm sure you're not that bad!" i reassured him.

"oh he is, he can barely swim." JJ laughed.

Pope shrugged, pulling a tragic face.

i laughed and looked for waves.

a few passed, but soon enough i saw a fairly sized one.

i laid flat on my board and paddled slowly, then when i felt the wave begin to carry my board forward, i stood up, bent my legs and rode the wave to shore.

it carried on like that all afternoon, with John B having to occasionally save Pope.

JJ was a damn good surfer, but it was time to test him.

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