A bright blue sky absent of clouds fallowed us as we rode the Harley towards the coast.
I had given Marcus directions to Lizzy's place, she lives on the beach. I hoped Marcus could surf, it was my greatest passion and I wanted to share it with him. He has shared so much with me in such a short time, I felt I needed to reciprocate.
Liz had gone out with her father, or so she said. The garage had been left unlocked for access to the boards lined against the wall. His choice was not what I had expected. I pointed out a couple of long boards easy to learn with. His eyes locked on the royal purple and blue fun board which happened to be my favorite. I spoke up as he reached out to touch her.
"You ever surf before Marcus"?
The board was a 7.5' quad fin, and I loved her more than my car.
"Yeah babe, couple times. Why"?
"That's my board honey, be careful with her. Ok"?
He smiled and asked which board I was choosing. Just in case he bit off more than he could chew, I pointed at a 9.0'.
"You carry mine babe, I'll get yours".
So sweet if him...
I grabbed the small board and led the way to the boardwalk. The pier was a short stroll south, where I enjoy the waves most.
My toes dug into the sand as cool water lapped at my ankles. We had begun to wade out together into the surf, boards in hand. The rolling white water had begun to increase power as it collided with my mid section. Thousands of white bubbles burst all around me after each wave that passed.
We stopped to watch the 6 foot high waves breaking just ahead of us. A large set had just begun, the first grew from the dark blue water outside. It peaked along it's center, folded over and broke in both directions empty of passengers. The second to rise was larger, three guys scratched for position as it grew from the depths.
One asserted his dominance and held the inside line. He stood prone just as the head high wave folded over his back. Holding his outside rail he slid down and just in front of the barrel.
Marcus spoke above the sound of water moving around us.
"That was a nice wave"!
"Yeah, he went to my high school. Surfs all day".
"Sounds nice, they won't mind if we snuggle in with them"?
"Nah they're cool, just try and stay out of the way".
"K".
The set had gone by, maybe five or six in total. It was time to paddle and I said as much. I tried to gauge his ability, his chest was to low and his body moved atop The board to much.
I worried for his safety.
"You good honey"?
He looked at me and smiled. Which caused him to almost fall from the board as a small wave passed through the green water. His focus returned to the ocean as he paddled for deeper water.
There were about five other guys in the water, scattered and hunting for a set. Like lions waiting for prey we waited. Marcus sat his board aukwardly, the nose pointed out of the water a bit much. A couple of the guys took notice.
"Hey Jen, who's the grom"?
I just waved and looked away, I didn't need to get him into a fight.
Marcus had begun to paddle north, I watched him struggle as more laughter rose behind me. His direction was angled bringing him to deeper water as he traveled away from me. A small set rolled under all of us but no one bit, they watched giggling as he struggled away.
My attention was on him. I missed a wave as it traveled under me, lifting me a few feet as it passed.
Finally he stopped and sat staring at the horizon. He craned his neck as a small set passed, then began to struggle and paddle farther out. I looked toward his left and saw what he did. A large wave was building just in front if him. I cringed in fear as it gained on his position, growing as it advanced. Quickly, he turned in place as the large wave gathered up behind him beginning to fold up tall and peak.
The smooth action caught me off guard, his form changed.
He transformed in front of my eyes. First was his posture, gone was the lazy looking slumped body of a beginner. Replaced was the arched back of a seasoned vet. Three long and powerful strokes was all it took for him to stand. His long body stretched out and arched into his bottom turn just as the beautiful beast began to crash behind him. He crouched, dragging his hand along the face of the wave.
He winked at me while he slid by towards the sand!
That freaking liar, acting like a kook!
In my happiness and anger I turned to look at the other surfers in the lineup, all had a look of confusion mixed with respect. He was truly grace in fluid motion, he melted to the power of the ocean.
My heart melted...
He returned to me with a smile, water dripping off his gorgeous face.
I punched his arm as he pulled up.
"You freaking snake, that was an amazing ride, for a beginner"!
"Never said I was a beginner, and I wanted to see your face when I caught a wave"!
"Very funny, now give me my board back"!
We exchanged boards in the surf just as a wave came our way. Side by side we stood and peeled right towards the pier. Marcus walked to the front of the long board as I carved just below him.
We laughed and smiled watching each other gliding towards the sand. He was amazing on the big board as well, flawless.
Together on the sand we walked to the shower for a rinse off.
He was kissing me under the cool water when a familiar deep voice yelled my name.
"Jen! Jenny, what is going on here! Who the hell is that guy"!!!!
Our kiss broke. Oh shit, Jarred.....
