Surfer Girl

Living on the beach

       The beach is my favorite place to be.  Some beaches have small waves, weird sand, and lots of rocks. Well before you imagine my beach, let me explain it to you.

       On my beach, there is tons of sand, and the beach stretches about ten miles. It holds millions of people and is one of the most popular beaches in Australia. The beach is called Jack-Marrow beach. The waves can get up to forty feet, so there are about ten lifeguards on duty. All the lifeguards have different posts along the beach. They have motor vehicles, to get around Jack-Marrow. They have saved so many lives at the beach. 

       When I grow up I want to be a surfer or a lifeguard. Many people think that this is a risky job, but really I think that it's a great job. My mom does not like the ocean at all and always says that it's too scary. I have had to get saved from Jack-Marrow twice.

       Once was when I was ten, and the rip took me out into the ocean. I was scared, but the lifeguards got me out quickly, and I was fine. The second time was about three weeks ago. I got knocked out by a big wave, and I could not find my way up. Luckily, a local surfer had seen me go under and had kept me up before the lifeguards came. 

       In the past ten years, only eight people have died at Jack-Marrow. This makes me feel a little safer because the lifeguards are super good. My sister is afraid of the big waves. She will only play in the kid pool to the right of the beach. Once when she was little, she got carried out to sea pretty far, and she has been terrified ever since. 

       My brother will go out into the waves, but only if they're small. He likes body-boarding and is actually pretty good. Also, my brother is a strong swimmer, so sometimes he takes a small swim in the ocean. 

       I learned surfing from my dad, and also the Jack-marrow lifeguards. They are so kind, and all very funny. They have taught me many tricks, and I have got way better at surfing because of them. I think that sometimes people think lifeguards are annoying. I think that they are just trying to help. 

       My dad, as I said before moved three hours away from us. I only see my dad a few times a year, so when I do I always go surfing with him. Also, my dad taught me how to skateboard, so we sometimes go to the skatepark, and skate around. I like surfing better than skating, but both are so fun to do. I think that I am most like my dad, and so it is hard when I do not live with him.

       Anyway, the beach is a perfect place to live. Sometimes in the winter people do not like to go into the water, but I think winter is the perfect time for surfing. There are big swells out in the ocean, which means perfect waves on the beach. Anyways, let's get out of the beach, and onto what's happening right now.